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Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 14, 2023 – a day in Nawiliwili, Kaua’i, Hawai’i, USA

Nawiliwili is the first port of call for Koningsdam in Hawai’i, however the ship is delayed a bit by another ship leaving the harbour this morning. Once we are tied up, passengers are soon ashore and off on their excursions, despite some having to be cancelled due to our later arrival. I have nothing planned, so I have a leisurely breakfast aboard ship at the Grand Dutch Cafe: muffin, fruit parfait, cappuccino.

Joe wearing his new Aloha shirt featuring Frangipangi flowers on a dark red background.
Joe wearing his new Aloha shirt featuring Frangipangi flowers on a dark red background.

I then go ashore, walking 10 minutes to the two resorts and shops on the nearby shores of Nawiliwili Bay. I find a shop selling 100% cotton Aloha shirts, so I buy a nice-looking one with Frangipani flowers on a deep red background. It looks quite classy, and I think it will match the Ultra Red on my new Tesla Model S! After taking a few photos along the beautiful beach, I walk back to the ship, and have a Tribeca pizza and Heineken beer for lunch outside.

Le Boreal, a Ponant premium cruise ship docks in the harbour midday. It is quite small with a 264 passenger capacity, and a very sleek design.

After our departure from Nawiliwili Harbour around 4PM there is a spectacular sunset as the ship sails overnight to dock in Hilo on the Big Island of Hawai’i tomorrow. I have dinner in the Main Dining Room, but order a light entree, since the pizza at lunch filled me up.

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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 5 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 13, 2023 – My Birthday at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

I have poached eggs on avocado toast for breakfast in the Main Dining room this morning. I join two couples from Parksville and Ottawa. The men start complaining about gas prices, so I drop the bombshell that I haven’t bought gas since 2014. They then commence to diss electric vehicles, but I take the high road and tell them about how much fun EVs are to drive, great for road trips, how quiet and reliable they are, and point out the low operating cost.

A chocolate cupcake arrives in my stateroom with best wishes from the Captain on my birthday (see banner above). Ovation of the Seas is visible on the horizon to the south of us at 11AM heading to Honolulu, so I take a photo using my long telephoto lens from my balcony.

Ovation of the Seas is on the horizon beside our ship

I have my first swim in the Sea View pool this morning, since it has warmed up nicely as we approach Hawai’i. It is very crowded on the stern deck on this lovely sunny day, but I find a table and chair in the shade. I have a Cannonball burger made with an Impossible patty, fries and a Heineken beer, which hits the spot for my lunch.

A busy Sea View pool on the first warm day of the cruise

Captain’s Noon report

  • 302 nmi to go before we arrive in Nawiliwili on the island of Kaua’i
  • 2m swells

I have a lazy afternoon in my stateroom and enjoying my balcony, and then go down to the Dutch Cafe later for a cappuccino. I stay to browse the web and work on my journal and photos with my Macbook Pro. Having a Starlink connection has greatly improved the Internet experience aboard ship! There are some Red-footed Booby swooping beside the ship’s bow late this afternoon. They are magnificent birds that feed on the small fish on the ocean surface by swooping down into dives.

Red-footed Booby swooping beside the ship's bow

I thoroughly enjoy my birthday dinner at my favourite specialty restaurant the Tamarind, which is an Asian fusion restaurant that also has a sushi bar and chef. I stick to the main menu this evening and have a couple of martinis to celebrate my 71st birthday:

  • Chinese Five Spice Baby Back Ribs
  • Thai Basil Szechuan Shrimp with Dungeness Crab Fried rice
  • 3 Sorbets: lemon-basil, yuzu, lychee
Chinese Five Spice Baby Back Ribs

After dinner, I go to the Main Stage where pianist Ryan Ahern performs blues, Broadway, movie themes, and Liberace. He has an amazing repertoire, and is based in Las Vegas with his band when he’s not touring solo. When I return to my stateroom, there are more Happy Birthday wishes from the captain and three towel art from my room stewards waiting for me to discover on my bed. What a lovely day at sea!

Happy Birthday wishes from the captain and 3 towel art from my room stewards
Happy Birthday wishes from the captain and 3 towel art from my room stewards
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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 4 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 12, 2023 – Day 4 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

I have Lox and bagel with a passion fruit parfait for breakfast in the Main Dining room this morning.

Bagel, lox and creme cheese for breakfast

EXC Talk: Aloha Baby – The True Story of Iconic Hawaiian Symbols

  • History of the ukulele – 3 Portuguese immigrants made furniture and musical instruments, King David Kalākaua the Merrie Monarch popularized the instrument.
  • The Aloha Shirt – not a Hawaiian shirt.
Joe in a tie and jacket for Dressy Night. Flowers in the Ocean Bar aboard Koningsdam.
Joe in a tie and jacket for Dressy Night. Flowers in the Ocean Bar aboard Koningsdam.

Noon Captain’s Report

  • We have sailed 1,157 miles from Astoria, with 770 miles to go for arrival in Kauai
  • Wind is 20 kts from the North, Force 5, 8′ swells
  • Our arrival in Nawiliwili will be delayed due to a cruise ship already being docked. New estimated arrival is 8:30AM, depending on when the other ship departs and releases the pilot.

It is Dressy night, so I put on a tie and jacket and go to the Main Dining Room for dinner. I then catch the The Runaround Kids – Prom Dance music in Main Stage.

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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 3 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 11, 2023 – Day 3 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

Noon Captain’s Report

  • Wind currently 15kts SW force 4 with 2m swells (gentle)
  • Wind was 20kts overnight 1.5m swells

Five wines with cheese, fruit and bread

James Suckling's Regional Wine Tasting in the Main Dining room with a Sommelier.
Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean
2023-10-11, 1:57:05 PM
James Suckling’s Regional Wine Tasting in the Main Dining room with a Sommelier. Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean 2023-10-11, 1:57:05 PM

I attend a complimentary Mariners’ James Suckling’s Regional Wine Tasting at 2PM in the Main Dining Room. The sommelier leads us through tasting a sparkling, two whites and two reds, accompanied with some cheese, fruit, bread and chutney. Since I’m not much of a wine drinker, it’s nice that my 4-star Mariner status with Holland America gives me these opportunities to try something different.

I skip lunch today in anticipation of my reservation for dinner in Canaletto, since I want to fully appreciate their amazing Osso Buco (Braised cross-cut veal shanks, mascarpone, saffron arborio risotto, carrots). I start with Burrata, a lovely fresh-tasting salad featuring the cheese with plum tomatoes, pistachio-garlic gremolata and extra virgin olive oil (see above banner image). The Osso Buco is fork tender and oh so richly flavoured! I finish with Affogato for dessert (malaga gelato, espresso, lemon zest). A glass of Chianti goes well with the veal.

Osso Buco – amazing flavour and fork tender!

Braised cross-cut veal shanks, mascarpone, saffron arborio risotto, roasted carrots. My entree for dinner in the Canaletto restaurant.
Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean
2023-10-11, 6:03:47 PM
Braised cross-cut veal shanks, mascarpone, saffron arborio risotto, roasted carrots. My entree for dinner in the Canaletto restaurant. Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean 2023-10-11, 6:03:47 PM
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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 2 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 10, 2023 – Day 2 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

The ship was pitching a lot again last night, so there were strange noises, however I got to sleep. The ship’s clocks turned back an hour last night, so we have an extra hour of sleep. It looks like it will take us another day to sail clear of the huge storm north of us. It continues to cause the ship to pitch, so the outside decks are closed.

9am Captain’s Report: A large low pressure area is 600 miles to the north of us, with winds of 40 kts and 15’ swells.

Noon Captain’s Report: NW winds at 35kts – Force 8 with 15′ swells, reducing to 15kts by this evening.

Just before lunch, our Cruise Director Stephanie takes the World Stage to deliver an EXC Talk: The Kingdom of Hawai’i – Native Hawaiian Spirit. She confesses to being seasick from the ship’s motion, but does a great job of delivering the presentation. Continuing on with the cultural theme, a Hawaiian Brunch is served in the Main Dining Room today. I have the Hawaiian Plate – teriyaki pork and chicken, rice, macaroni salad. My table mates are a couple from Oliver, formerly from White Rock, and a couple from Pennsylvania, all well-travelled who offer interesting conversation.

Aloha Sunset Music Hour in the Crow’s Nest

There is Hula at the Aloha Sunset Music Hour in the Crow’s Nest at 6PM, performed by our three Hawaiian ambassadors: Jay, Jamie and Keoni. After having a prime rib dinner in the Main Dining room this evening, I go to Main Stage to enjoy a performance by Ryan Ahern, a talented pianist from Las Vegas.

Ryan Ahern, a pianist from Las Vegas
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Astoria to Kauai – Day 1 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 9, 2023 – Day 1 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

We sail into very windy conditions with high seas after the ship leaves Astoria. The ship is slamming into big waves and the wind is howling through the gaps in my balcony door seals as I try to sleep. I’m awake until conditions lessen some time after 1:30AM.

Huge low pressure region west of us, so the ship's course to Hawai'i is skirting the worst of it.
Huge low pressure region west of us, so the ship’s course to Hawai’i is skirting the worst of it.

Captain’s Noon Report – NW wind 20 kts, increasing slightly this evening to 25 kts with 6-8 foot swells. Ship’s time sets back one hour this evening.

Conditions at 9:12PM

  • 35 mph wind from SSW
  • Ship proceeding at 17.5 knots on SW heading 227

We have a huge storm west of us, and it looks like it will take us another day or two to sail clear of it. Outside decks are closed and the ship is lurching quite a bit.

Traditional Canadian Thanksgiving Turkey dinner served in the Main Dining Room

Canadian Thanksgiving is celebrated this evening by the large number of Canadians aboard the ship. It is Dressy Night so I put on a dress shirt, tie and jacket and go to the Main Dining Room to have a lovely turkey dinner with my fellow Canadians.

The Birth of Rock and Roll- featuring- The Runaround Kids

World Stage. The RKs are a multi awardwinning vintage band who are here to play the best of 1950’s and 1960’s rock and roll. Join them in the theatre for their spectacular show which charts the greatest music ever written. 
Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean
2023-10-09, 8:22:22 PM
World Stage. The RKs are a multi awardwinning vintage band who are here to play the best of 1950’s and 1960’s rock and roll. Join them in the theatre for their spectacular show which charts the greatest music ever written. Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean 2023-10-09, 8:22:22 PM

The Birth of Rock and Roll – featuring The Runaround Kids give an energetic performance this evening on The World Stage.

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Astoria

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Sunday, October 8, 2023 – Astoria, Oregon, USA

Our approach to the Columbia River mouth was in the morning hours, with the river pilot boarding the ship from a helicopter on the stern – Deck 9 Lido. Passengers were advised to stay clear until the pilot was aboard and the crew had placed all deck furniture back in place. I’m out on deck with my camera as the ship passes Cape Disappointment at about 10:20AM. We pass Fort Stevens as we sail up the Columbia River to dock at Astoria at Noon under clear and sunny skies and lovely 18ºC temperatures.

Since Astoria is a hilly city, I had booked the Astoria Scenic Waterfront Biking excursion, but due to the ship arriving late, that excursion is cancelled, so I go to the excursion desk and book the Historic Astoria excursion. After our bus drives under the imposing Astoria-Megler Bridge and through the city, our first stop is the Columbia River Maritime Museum on the river shore. This modest museum offers both inside displays about local maritime history and the Columbia lightship was docked nearby, beside the still active USCGC Steadfast. Driving to the second stop, the Astoria Column, gives us drive-by glimpses of the historic neighbourhoods that would otherwise be difficult to get to in this hilly city. The 360-degree views from the top of the column are worth the claustrophobic climb up the circular staircase!

Westward panoramic view from the top of the Astoria Column

Astoria, OR, USA
2023-10-08, 3:06:59 PM
Astoria, OR, USA 2023-10-08, 3:06:59 PM

Final stop is Fort Clatsop at the Lewis & Clark National Historic Park where a park ranger does a good job of setting the historical context for this strategically important outpost for the still-forming country – the United States of America. Fort Clatsop was a winter encampment for the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1805-06.

After returning to the ship in the late afternoon, I go for an early dinner to the Canaletto Italian premium restaurant while the ship is still docked. I have a table with a nice view across the river as I start with fresh, warm artisan bread with green olives, olive oil and balsamic vinegar, green and red pesto, along with a glass of Pinot Grigio white wine. Next is a delicious Canaletto salad – greens, walnuts, gorgonzola, beets, with balsamic dressing. My main course is an exceptionally good Escalope of Fresh Cod with a small side of fresh-made pasta topped with parmesan. The cod melts in my mouth! The premium charge for Canaletto is US$25 pp, however since I’m a 4-star Mariner I get 50% off, so with the $4.50 service charge, my cost for this very enjoyable meal is US$17.

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Vancouver Departure

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

I have a coffee and a cereal bar in my hotel room before checking out and rolling my bag the few blocks down to Canada Place, stopping for a quick selfie before going inside. I am through the check-in at the cruise terminal shortly after my10:20AM boarding time, however it takes about an hour for the ship to start accepting passengers aboard. Since I roll my own bag aboard, I’m soon settled into my stateroom #5023.

I then head to the Grand Dutch Cafe for lunch: Beenam’s ham sandwich and a bowl of Dutch pea soup. The couple ordering ahead of me insist on loading up with two giant sized chocolate-covered cream puffs and two slices of Dutch apple pie each! The server and I have a chuckle about their greed. I take a cappuccino and a Perrier bottled water back to my stateroom.

Dutch apple pie, Chocolate vanilla cake, bran, chocolate and blueberry muffins, giant-sized chocolate covered cream puff. Dutch pea soup, Beenam’s ham sandwich. Grand Dutch Cafe aboard Koningsdam
Dutch apple pie, Chocolate vanilla cake, bran, chocolate and blueberry muffins, giant-sized chocolate covered cream puff. Dutch pea soup, Beenam’s ham sandwich. Grand Dutch Cafe aboard Koningsdam

It’s a lovely sunny day in Vancouver as the ship pulls away from the dock at about 4:45pm, which is a bit late due to a passenger having to be taken off the ship at the last minute for medical reasons. I never get tired of being aboard a ship at it sails under Lion’s Gate Bridge, passing Stanley Park and the North Shore heading out into the Strait of Georgia. It is dark by the time we pass my home city of Victoria, so rather than spend time on deck, I have my first Martini on this voyage and enjoy the jazz, blues and rock on the Music Walk venues this evening.

Harbour Air seaplane taxiing to the dock in Coal Harbour with pleasure craft and Chevron fuel dock, Brockton Point, Stanley Park, Lion's Gate bridge and the North Shore mountains
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Victoria to Vancouver

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

I like to arrive in a cruise departure city the day before a cruise leaves, in order to not be rushed and to reduce the inevitable anxiety of being ready to board the ship at the appointed day and time. I have a leisurely breakfast at home and take care of some last minute packing before going to the airport in the late morning. I check my bag at the check-in desk, go through security and have lots of time left to spot aircraft from the domestic gates waiting area. I only spot the usual suspects today: Westjet, Air Canada and Flair, and of course Pacific Coastal, which is my airline today.

Air Canada Rouge, Westjet, Porter, Flair & Pacific Coastal spotted at Victoria airport
Air Canada Rouge, Westjet, Porter, Flair & Pacific Coastal spotted at Victoria airport

My Pacific Coastal Airlines, Flight 106 on a Beech 1900D leaves Victoria Airport at 1:40PM, arriving at Vancouver airport’s South Terminal at 2:15PM. Skies are clear as we cross Georgia Strait, giving me some good views of the Gulf Islands. As we approach Vancouver Airport from the east, it’s fascinating to fly low over the Fraser River delta farms and urban development in Surrey, Richmond and Delta. I even catch some glimpses of Mount Baker to the south of us through the orange-coloured haze in the sky this afternoon. I take the shuttle to the Main Terminal and board the Canada Line Skytrain, arriving at the City Centre Station a half hour later. I’m staying at the Metropolitan Hotel, which is a 5-minute walk away.

I use the MarineTraffic app on my iPhone to check on Koningsdam’s current position. As of 4:30PM, the ship is just entering Johnston Strait near Port Hardy on northern Vancouver Island, heading south to dock in Vancouver tomorrow morning. After having a shower and catching up with my online social media, I go downstairs to the hotel’s Diva bar and restaurant for some dinner. I have Grilled salmon over a roasted beet salad with a glass of Granville Island Pale Ale.

After dinner, I go on a walkabout downtown at sunset, taking photos of the buildings with my Canon R5. The art deco Marine Building is always a good subject, especially since it is surrounded with modern glass towers which reflect its image. The Apple Store is across the street from my hotel, but I’m not tempted to shop, despite being an Apple fan!

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Vancouver Arrival

April 30, 2023 – Sunday – Arrival in Vancouver and onward to home in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

2023 Panama Canal Cruise

I’m up at 6am to experience the beautiful light as we sail past English Bay, under Lion’s Gate Bridge and Stanley Park, down Burrard Inlet to the harbour. I grab a cappuccino and a chocolate croissant from the Explorations Cafe to take back to my stateroom. The ship docks in Vancouver a bit ahead of time, despite having two cruise ships docked at Canada Place ahead of us: the huge Discovery Princess and the much smaller Brillance of the Seas. This is the end of the cruise for me, and a return to reality!

Since I’m rolling my own bag off the ship, I’m one of the first off the ship, leaving at 8AM. Canada Customs and Immigration don’t want to talk to the departing passengers, so I make my way to the nearby Skytrain Waterfront Station and board the Canada Line which goes to the airport. It takes 35 minutes, so I’m at the airport station by 8:45am, catch the shuttle to the South Terminal, and check my bag with Pacific Coastal Airlines for my flight home to Victoria.

My flight doesn’t leave until 12:45pm, so I try going to the observing platform outside the terminal to spot planes, but the breeze is cold and there are very few aircraft moving at this time of day. Retreating back to the terminal building, I grab a muffin from the Galiano Cafe and settle in to wait by editing some of my photos on my notebook.

The flight goes without a hitch, however the dull grey weather means I take few photos out the aircraft window. We land on runway 13, which is unusual, but brings us very close to the apron in front of the terminal. My family are waiting for me, and my bag is the first on the belt. We pay the $2 parking fee and drive home, where the rest of the family are waiting to greet me.