Ambergris Caye

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Beach view from our condoThe wind is very strong this afternoon after arriving in San Pedro on Ambergris Caye - not that we're complaining. What a treat after the hot, humid & no wind in Placencia, and the smoke at Blancaneaux Lodge. However the wind is so strong, it is blowing in salt spray and covering everything with that greasy, salty coating.  We stayed at the Belizian Reef condo, which I would highly recommend as one of the best-maintained, yet reasonably-priced condos on Ambergris Caye.  Only a 2 minute walk to San Pedro town, the Belizian Reef is in an ideal location, right on the beach. Bookings can be made directly by telephone (501-26-2582).

Beach and swimming area with the reef in the background, as viewed from the patio of our Belizian Reef condo. Tonight we have dinner at Celi's restaurant.  Friendly service, and my shrimp creole is excellent. It looks like we will be getting up early while staying in San Pedro, since the whole town is literally right on top of the airport. When that first flight leaves shortly after 6am, I can't see how anyone in town would still be left sleeping. Rock's food store caters to the tourists, and since we are staying in a condo, equipped with full kitchen, we decided to get some provisions for breakfasts and some lunches.

Joe on Barrier Reef DriveSand street and clapboard buildingsOne store that I found fascinating in San Pedro is Iguana Jacks. They sell fine art pottery which have colourful iguanas fired right onto the pots. Of course, the one I liked was BZ$3,000! San Pedro is worth take a walk through (Joe on Barrier Reef Drive), although it is perhaps the most "touristy" area to be found in the whole of Belize.  Lots of golf carts, and a few cars, sand streets and clapboard buildings. Many Americans have settled on Ambergris Caye, and they have brought their commercialism with them.   Consequently, San Pedro tends to be very "un-Belizian".

Fish under Ramon's WharfDuring our stay, we went snorkeling off Ramon's Pier quite often.. There are all sorts of fish to look at, and there is also a Moray Eel living in a pile of timbers under the dock. We also spotted spiney lobsters - big enough to feed four! One day, we also saw a barracuda under the wharf, and quickly retreated. Lots of fun, very safe, and the pier is located close to many of the condos built along the shore. There are some moderately strong currents in this area, so some caution is needed for children and weak swimmers, but the good display of fish is worth it. Also be sure to stay inside the marked swimming area at the end of the pier, since boats are constantly travelling in the area. If you use this facility, please be sure to buy a lunch or a drink from Ramon's.

Micky's Restaurant isn't fancy, but the food is good, it is very clean and reasonably-priced. We both had a chicken tostada lunch special for BZ$5 each. Excellent tostadas.  Elvi's Kitchen was recommended for dinner. I got a headache from the fumes of the kerosene lamps they use at the tables, but the food was good and moderately priced.  A popular place with the tourists.

Victoria House is a BZ$10 taxi ride from downtown.. The night we had dinner there a Mexican buffet was offered at US$23 each. We thought it would be a special dinner at that price, but it was only mediocre at best.  Their location is quiet, and the grounds, buildings, beach and wharf are very nice. Out of town, so you will have to take taxis or rent a golf cart to get around.

Manatee Tour

by Excalibur Tours - see the Manatees, Goff's Caye, Caye Caulker (and other cayes), snorkle in Shark Alley (see Nurse Sharks and Sting Rays up close).

For those who are more adventuresome, you might want to try scuba diving.   Our neighbours in the condo (two more medical students - male this time) went through for their scuba diving ticket, and found the experience very exciting.  The Hol Chan Marine Reserve is located just off the southern tip of Amergris Caye, and provides opportunities to see superb sea life.   Of course, the big draw for scuba divers to Belize for many years continues to be The Blue Hole - located offshore (a full day trip).  This area is a favourite hangout of Hammerhead Sharks and other exotic marine species.

Renting a golf cart is a good way to see a bit more of Ambergris Caye. Proceeding north through San Pedro, you drive through some pretty squalid areas, which  is where most of the locals live. It is only possible to go so far north on Ambergris Caye, and then you come upon a small stream where the only way to get across is by hand-drawn ferry. Proceeding south along Coconut Drive as far as you can go, brings you almost to the southern-most point of Ambergris Caye. There are some nice homes either already occupied or being built along the shore.  The road is reduced to dirt tracks in this area, but they are passable using a golf cart.

Our last dinner is at Duke's, located by the airport. Although the food is well prepared, the place and service are uninspired.  Rated only adequate.

As we fly out of San Pedro heading back to Belize City, I take some shots out of the aircraft window.

The reef line
The reef line offshore from San Pedro, Ambergris Caye.     

Ambergris Caye & San Pedro
Ambergris Caye and San Pedro from an aerial perspective.

Unknown caye & mangrove swamp
An unknown caye and mangrove swamp as seen through the smoke coming from the forest fires on the mainland. 

Forest fires near Belize City
The forest fires rage out of control around Belize City, as we land at the airport

 

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Last updated: July 22, 2010
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