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Panama Canal 2023

April 16, 2023 – Sunday – Nieuw Amsterdam transiting the Panama Canal from the Caribbean to the Pacific

2023 Panama Canal Cruise

This is the day most passengers are on this cruise for: transiting the Panama Canal. I’m up before sunrise as the ship waits offshore from Colon in Limon Bay to enter the canal at the Gatun Locks from the Caribbean Sea. Although we enter the locks on time at Gatun, by the time we emerge from the last lock at Miraflores on the Pacific side, we are an hour late. The Sun is set by the time we sail under the Bridge of the Americas and into Panama Bay, emerging into the Pacific Ocean.

Panama Canal Transit map

Although this is my fifth canal transit, I’m always fascinated by the process of lifting ships up to the level of Gatun Lake, and then lowering them back to sea level. This is the first time I’ve observed the new locks in operation: Agua Clara locks on the Atlantic side, and Cocoli Locks on the Pacific side. Since our ship uses the old locks, we don’t get great views of the new lock system, however I can see the massive ships beside and above us as we go through the old locks. In addition to bigger container ships, the new locks also enable LNG and PNG tankers to now use the canal, which apparently is a big revenue stream for Panama.

Our cruise director Kimberly is on the bridge all day narrating as our ship transits the canal. She shares that the captain has confirmed that today’s toll for the Nieuw Amsterdam is US$444,000, or just over US$300 per passenger!

I watch the ship transit the canal from three main areas of the ship. My own stateroom’s verandah is on Deck 7 Forward, so it offers great views from the right side of the ship and happens to be on the shady side since it faces west. I also pop out to the Deck 7 Forward deck, which is very close to my stateroom and is open today, since it offers great views from the front of the ship. Finally, once in awhile I go up to Panorama Deck 10, where I can get views from both sides of the ship and be higher up.

While I take photos of the transit from various locations on the ship, I also setup my GoPro action camera on the rail of my balcony this morning to shoot a time lapse video, capturing all the interesting parts of the process of moving through the canal and locks. This 3-minute video captures the 12-hour process quite well!

It is Sunday, so there is a big crowd of Panamanians at the Miraflores Visitor Centre, who are waving at us as we move through the locks. On the other side, there is a big Alligator on the canal shoreline. Panama Bay and Panama City are beautiful in the darkness with the city lights shining.

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Panama Canal Transit

March 29, 2020 – Transiting the Panama Canal in the dead of night

2020 South America cruise

The Rotterdam and Zaandam are at anchor in the bay just off Balboa today. At dinner this evening, the captain informs us we have approvals for a canal transit, so both ships raise anchor and proceed to the Canal entrance after dark.

I have transited the Panama Canal on three previous occasions, but I find this is without a doubt the strangest. First of all, apparently the reason we were approved to transit is that Panama considers this a medical humanitarian mission. Both ships are proceeding after dark with minimal external lighting – no veranda deck lights, cabin blackout curtains are pulled, and we are transiting using the more remote, but new Cocoli Locks. I’m speculating, however I think it’s likely these measures are in place so the Panamanian public and canal workers don’t see our ships. There is great fear of mass protests by governments during these strange times we now live in…

The banner image above shows a webcam view of the Zaandam passing through Cocoli Locks. Note there are no canal workers in sight, since these new locks are designed to allow ship’s thrusters to be used instead of the labour-intensive towing that is required in the old locks.

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Malacca, Malaysia

Feb 28, 2016 – Malacca, Malaysia

2016 – SE Asia and Total Solar Eclipse cruise

Our ship anchors for the day offshore. Malacca is a city with an interesting history. It was originally colonized by the Portuguese, and then the Dutch came in and took over. Finally, the British ousted the Dutch, in the final wave of colonial rule before Malaysia gained independence in modern times.

Dutch Square, including bell tower and Christ Church, Malacca, Malaysia
Dutch Square, including bell tower and Christ Church, Malacca, Malaysia

We need to cover very little ground with our shore excursion today Walk the Dutch Trail, since the history of this small city is concentrated within a few blocks in the centre of the city. Malacca was once a spice centre for eastern and western traders, and boasts a colourful history forged by Malay Sultans and European colonial powers, which resulted in the formation of multi-cultural communities. Each of these historical eras left its own heritage and influence, as we walk back through time to discover the great empires of Malacca: the Malay Sultanate, the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British. Starting in Dutch Square, we see the Stadthuys, built as the official residence for the Dutch governors and their officers – an excellent example of Dutch period architecture. Christ Church, standing tall since 1753, is another contribution of the Dutch who defeated the Portuguese in 1641.

Seri Melaka, now known as the Governors Museum was the location of the head of state for this area from the Sultanate of Melaka’s time onward through the various colonial governors. Also on St Paul’s Hill are the ruins of St Paul’s Church, where Catholic missionary St Francis Xavier was briefly interred in 1553. The ruins of the Portuguese Fortress are visible as we descend the hill to tour the replica of the Malacca Sultan’s Palace. Finally, we head back to the pier by trishaw – gaudily-decorated bicycles with the back axel extended so there are two back wheels and a small seat with a canopy rigged up.

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Venice

September 7, 2014 – Sunday – Austria to Venice, Italy

Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour

After parking in the Tronchetto parking area of Venice, we get our bags off the bus and take the Vaporetto (water bus) to the Academia area. Jennifer previously warned us that an historical regatta was happening along the Grand Canal, which means some bridges and portions of the canal are closed to traffic. We schlepp our bags through the crowds, but when we reach the Academia Bridge, it is jammed solid with a crowd and is complete chaos. At this point we can no longer roll our bags as we squeeze through the crowds. It takes us about 20 minutes to carefully cross to the other side and regroup before continuing the rather stressful walk to our hotel.

Canal intersection with patios and homes above in Venice
Canal intersection with patios and homes above

The Hotel Serenissima is located just four blocks from St. Marks Square, and it’s not much further to the Rialto Bridge area. My room is the tiniest hotel room I have ever stayed in, however it has a bathroom and a single bed, and is comfortable and quiet, since it faces the inner courtyard instead of the street.

We don’t have much time, but I manage to get cleaned up before we go out for a group dinner at Trattoria alla Madonna. The food and service is very good. The dinner includes salad, main course, wine, dessert, and some entertainment from a trio that wandered in from the street. They make out like bandits from all the tips our group give them!

Gondola ride on the Grand Canal at night in Venice
Gondola ride on the Grand Canal at night in Venice

Another highlight of the tour is a night time gondola ride through the canals, complete with a singer and accordion player! Our guide Jennifer arranges this extra (reasonable) cost activity for those of us who want to go, so we share four gondolas. It is great to experience this with the group. It is a beautiful night, the Moon is full over the Grand Canal, and the city is alive with people as we glide by listening to our musicians. Jennifer even serves us Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) before we start the gondola ride!

September 8, 2014 – Monday – Venice

After breakfast at the hotel this morning, we go on an early morning guided walk with a local guide. We see Marco Polo family’s square, then go to the Venice Hospital area, where we have a break. The hospital looks like a church to me. The walk continues wandering through Venice, and we eventually come to a little shop on a canal, which sells Venetian masks. Our guide takes the whole group inside to see how the Moroccan owner makes the masks. I’m not interested, although the rest of the group seem to enjoy it.

Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals in St. Marks Cathedral
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals in St. Marks Cathedral

Our last stop on the tour is the famous St. Marks Cathedral on St. Marks Square (Piazza San Marco), where our guides leave us. Timing is important, since at 11:30AM, the lights illuminating the ceiling inside the church are turned on. This is new for the cathedral and well worth planning for, since the ceiling comes alive with the extra light, and photography of the ceiling detail is much more rewarding. I decide to pay extra to see the famous golden horses, which are upstairs in the museum part of the church. This turns out very well, since I also have access to the balcony over the main entrance, which gives an unobstructed view of the flooded St. Marks Square, the Doges Palace, the intricate St. Mark’s Clocktower, and the nearby islands and canals. I skip touring the Doges Palace, since I saw it last time I was here in 2006.

I get my shoes soaked as I try to dodge the water in the square on my way back to the hotel. After a nap in my room, I go out walking around the Rialto Bridge and the Grand Canal, take some photos, and just enjoy my free time in Venice. I join a couple in the tour group for dinner at a nice outdoor restaurant with a great view of a canal near the Rialto Bridge. Now that the cruise ship passengers have left Venice, the place is civilized again!

September 9, 2014 – Tuesday – Venice to Florence

We don’t encounter any problems taking the Vaporetto back to the Tronchetto parking area of Venice this morning, since the Regatta is over – things are back to normal.

Venice
64 photos
Fincantieri ship building facility
Fincantieri ship building facility
Frecciarsento high speed train in the rail yard at Mestre
Frecciarsento high speed train in the rail yard at Mestre
Five cruise ships docked
Five cruise ships docked
Tronchetto people mover train bridge
Tronchetto people mover train bridge
Tronchetto people mover train station
Tronchetto people mover train station
The causeway and the Tronchetto
The causeway and the Tronchetto
Tronchetto vaporetto terminal
Tronchetto vaporetto terminal
Crowds on the Academia bridge waiting for the regatta on the Grand Canal
Crowds on the Academia bridge waiting for the regatta on the Grand Canal
Group having dinner
Group having dinner
Musical trio entertaining the group after dinner
Musical trio entertaining the group after dinner
Venetian canal at night and an almost Full Moon
Venetian canal at night and an almost Full Moon
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Our gondolas await us
Our gondolas await us
Our tour group aboard one gondola
Our tour group aboard one gondola
Jim and Sandy celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary in Venice
Jim and Sandy celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary in Venice
Gondolas on a canal at night
Gondolas on a canal at night
Singer and accordian player on our gondola
Singer and accordian player on our gondola
Gondoliier and gondola on a canal at night
Gondoliier and gondola on a canal at night
Gondolas passing on a canal at night
Gondolas passing on a canal at night
Our group in a gondola passing under a bridge on a canal at night
Our group in a gondola passing under a bridge on a canal at night
Building's balcony and ornate room fscing the Grand Canal lit up at night
Building’s balcony and ornate room fscing the Grand Canal lit up at night
Jim and Sandy on thh Grande Canal with our gondolier
Jim and Sandy on thh Grande Canal with our gondolier
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our singer serenades us on the Grand Canal
Our singer serenades us on the Grand Canal
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
Our singer and accordian player serenade us on a small canal
Our singer and accordian player serenade us on a small canal
A bridge over a canal with the Full Moon behind
A bridge over a canal with the Full Moon behind
Freight boats in front of the Rialto Bridge
Freight boats in front of the Rialto Bridge
Marzipan confections in a shop window
Marzipan confections in a shop window
Freight boat in a canal
Freight boat in a canal
Mask-making presentation
Mask-making presentation
Gondola with ornate seats
Gondola with ornate seats
Wig and dress in the Atelier Marega mask shop window
Wig and dress in the Atelier Marega mask shop window
Canal intersection with patios and homes above
Canal intersection with patios and homes above
Brass door knocker
Brass door knocker
Masks hanging from a shop ceiling
Masks hanging from a shop ceiling
Bridge of Sighs behind the Doge's Palace
Bridge of Sighs behind the Doge’s Palace
Ornate roofline of the cathedral
Ornate roofline of the cathedral
Crowds in St. Mark's Square avoiding the flooding
Crowds in St. Mark’s Square avoiding the flooding
St Mark's Campanile tower
St Mark’s Campanile tower
The columns of San Marco and San Todaro and the crowds in front of the Doge's Palace
The columns of San Marco and San Todaro and the crowds in front of the Doge’s Palace
Torre dell'Orologio clock tower
Torre dell’Orologio clock tower
Ornate facade of the cathedral
Ornate facade of the cathedral
Crowds in St. Mark's Square avoiding the flooding
Crowds in St. Mark’s Square avoiding the flooding
The front balcony above the cathedral entrance
The front balcony above the cathedral entrance
Stairway to the museum
Stairway to the museum
The horses of St. Mark's Cathedral
The horses of St. Mark’s Cathedral
The gold decorated sanctuary from the balcony
The gold decorated sanctuary from the balcony
Gold leaf ceiling decorations
Gold leaf ceiling decorations
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated ceiling
Gold decorated ceiling
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Candelabra in the sanctuary
Candelabra in the sanctuary
Gold decorated screen
Gold decorated screen
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated ceiling murals
Gold decorated ceiling murals
San Marco Square flooded by a Full Moon tide
San Marco Square flooded by a Full Moon tide
People dining beside the Grand Canal near the Rialto Bridge
People dining beside the Grand Canal near the Rialto Bridge
San Giacomo di Rialto and its large 15th century clock above the entrance
San Giacomo di Rialto and its large 15th century clock above the entrance
Masks in a shop window
Masks in a shop window
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Amsterdam

September 1, 2014 – Monday – Amsterdam, Netherlands

Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour

Anne Frank statue
Anne Frank statue

We are out the door by 8:50AM for a full day of touring Amsterdam. We take the inter-city train from Haarlem to Amsterdam Centraal train station (takes about 10 minutes). Across the street from the train station, we catch a tram to the Anne Frank House and walk in ahead of the long line already forming. It is surprisingly emotional to actually see the hidden rooms where the two Jewish families hid from the Nazis during WWII.

The rooms are devoid of furniture and there are no photos permitted inside, as per Otto Frank’s wishes. The stairways are narrow, and the rooms feel so small. As Anne wrote in her diary, having the windows shuttered was depressing, and it must have been a huge challenge to keep still during the day in order to make no noise that might be heard by the businesses operating below the hidden rooms.

Jennifer then takes us on a walking tour of Amsterdam. First stop is the Pink Triangle granite Homomonument in the canal, celebrating homosexual civil rights and freedoms. The Netherlands was one of the first countries to recognize gay and lesbian rights. Spinning around the main Dam square in the city, we see: the massive Neo-Gothic retail store Magna PlazaMadame Tussauds Wax Museum, the Nieuwe Kerk (leading art venue in the city), and the Royal Palace. Unfortunately, we don’t have time to explore Dam Square.

After a stop for a late lunch, we find our way back to the Rijks Museum for an escorted tour. I must endorse taking an escorted tour through this museum, since there is so much art history to appreciate. The guides are wonderful! The museum doesn’t just feature paintings by Rembrandt, Vermeer, and other Dutch masters; there is furniture, applied and Asian art, sculpture, fashion, ship models, weapons, and all sorts of artifacts illustrating Dutch history. Just to cap it off, I bump into friends from home in one of the galleries – what a surprise!

Two old canal houses fully restored
Two old canal houses fully restored

By the time we leave the museum some of us need some respite from all the walking and standing, so we stop for a mid-afternoon beer and wine break in one of the local bars across the street from the Heineken factory. Afterward, we see some fascinating glimpses of Amsterdam by taking a one hour canal boat cruise.

Our final walk of the day takes us to Amsterdam’s Red Light District for a quick glimpse at the girls displaying their wares. As a contrast, we also see the outside of the Oude Kerk (Old Church) located in the same district, before finally taking the inter-city train back to Haarlem and our hotel.

It has been a long day!

Amsterdam is obviously a prosperous city, since it has huge retail, government, and cultural sectors, and they all appear to be thriving. By all accounts, housing is exceedingly expensive in the city. Many people who work in the city must live elsewhere and commute by train. One thing is certain, most of them ride bicycles…there are huge bicycle parkades in the city, and they are everywhere you look.

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Haarlem

2014.08.31 – Sunday – Haarlem, The Netherlands

Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour

Fall colours along a canal with car, boat and bicycle parking in Haarlem
Fall colours along a canal with car, boat and bicycle parking in Haarlem

At breakfast this morning, I meet some of the tour group. I sleep on and off during the day (dealing with jet lag), and walk the city, exploring and photographing as I go. It is a beautiful autumn day, and this old city has some lovely trees showing their colours and old buildings both lining the canals. Since it is Sunday, there are services being held in the Grot Kerk church across the street from our hotel, the Ambassador City Centre. Once the service is finished, I go inside and listen to the magnificent pipe organ being played, and take in the impressive stained glass windows and huge arched wooden ceiling inside the main sanctuary.

Café Colette located next door to the hotel serves great cappuccino, so I sit outside and catch up on my travel journal and photos while sipping my coffee. The tour group meets at 4PM in the hotel, where our guide Jennifer describes the tour details and Rick Steves’ tour philosophy.

We then go as a group to the nearby De Lachende Javaan Indonesian restaurant for a traditional Indonesian ‘rijsttafel’ dinner. The food is wonderful and there are so many dishes, but the food is not as spicy as I remember how Indonesian food normally tastes. This is a good opportunity to meet some of the people on the tour, and start learning names.

From Wikipedia: The Indonesian rijsttafel (Dutch), a Dutch word that literally translates to “rice table”, is an elaborate meal adapted by the Dutch following the hidang presentation of Nasi Padang from the Padang region of West Sumatra. It consists of many (forty is not an unusual number) side dishes served in small portions, accompanied by rice prepared in several different ways.

Afterward, we go on a walking tour of Haarlem with local tour guide Yodi. She points out the plaques on many of the old buildings, which give clues to the business interests of the original owners, and highlights the history of this area. She talks about the tolerance for the Marijuana ‘coffee’ shops, and points out The Hiding Place – where the Ten Boom family hide Jews and others the Nazis wanted in their home.

September 1, 2014 – Monday – Haarlem & Amsterdam, Netherlands

We are out the door by 8:50AM this morning for a full day of touring Amsterdam. We take the inter-city train to Amsterdam and back again to Haarlem in the late evening (about 15 minutes each way). We return to our Haarlem hotel after 7PM, so after quickly cleaning up a bit, I join two couples for dinner at Café Colette restaurant next door to the hotel. I have a very nicely done rib eye steak, and the others also enjoy their meals. It is time to pack for our bus departure tomorrow for Germany.

When I travel, I often ask myself the question “Would you live here?” I have to say that living in the Netherlands would be very easy, especially in a small city such as Haarlem. The people are very friendly, virtually everyone speaks English, the country is prosperous and stable, and it is part of the European Union. The only downside to living here is that it is very expensive, and it rains a lot (average 133 days per year).

 

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2011 Panama Canal Transit

2011 Incan Empires Cruise

Monday, November 28, 2011 – Day 8 – Panama Canal Transit

I skip breakfast this morning and get out on deck by 6:45AM in order to see our approach to the Panama Canal from the Caribbean side near the city of Colon. The Sun is up and it is raining as we approach the first set of locks at Gatun. My camera lenses are fogged up since I just brought them out from the cool, air-conditioned ship’s interior to the warm and humid outside air. It takes them about a half hour to warm up and become clear of the condensation. I stay outside most of the rest of the day in order to observe all the various fascinating phases of the Rotterdam’s transit.

Joe on deck at Gatun Locks
Joe on deck at Gatun Locks

The Gatun Locks consist of three locks, and are the most dramatic of all the Panama Canal locks, since they lift the ship 26 metres above sea level to Gatun Lake. The navigation channel across Gatun Lake forms the largest single segment of the transit. We encounter another tropical rainstorm as we cross the lake. As we move through the narrow Culebra Cut (or Gaillard Cut), freighters are moved out of our way so we can pass, since the dredging of the Cut has narrowed the navigation channel more than normal. Passenger ships such as Rotterdam have priority for daytime passage through the Canal, and actually become a bit of a spectacle for locals, who sometimes park to watch us pass by.

This time lapse video of the Island Princess transiting the canal on May 1st, 2022 really captures the experience well! Thanks to Tony at La Lido Loca.

As we approach Pedro Miguel Lock (a single lock), the new 6km long Pacific Access Channel is easy to see to our right. It is a huge swath of construction that goes all the way from Pedro Miguel Locks, past Miraflores Locks, and out to the Pacific Ocean. The new locks will consist of three chambers, whereas now Pedro Miguel has one chamber and Miraflores has two chambers with the small Miraflores Lake between them. This $1.5 billion expansion project will deliver a third set of locks capable of moving larger ships through the canal system. The existing lock systems will continue to operate, so throughput will be significantly increased. I find the construction fascinating to see while it is in progress.

We experience a beautiful day for our Panama Canal transit. It is not too hot (about 26°C and not too rainy (only 3 rainstorms). I enjoy the day immensely, but manage to pick up a mild sunburn from staying outside most of the day, despite ducking under shade whenever possible. There is a commentator aboard the ship, who describes each phase of the transit and gives some background information about the canal over the PA system. She does not talk continuously the whole day long, thank goodness. I understand the transit charges for Rotterdam today amount to some $350,000, or $250/passenger!

JoeTourist: Panama City &emdash; Panama City at night

After completing the transit, Rotterdam anchors near a small community called Fuerte Amador on the Pacific side, which is in Panama Bay – about a 15 minute tender ride to shore, and about another 15 minute drive to Panama City. The skies clear this evening, so I go to Deck 6 Forward and take some photos of Panama City at night, which is a spectacular sight!

Panama Canal
49 photos
First lock at Gatun, where a rowboat brings out the first set of lines
First lock at Gatun, where a rowboat brings out the first set of lines
Freighter beside us at the first lock at Gatun
Freighter beside us at the first lock at Gatun
Looking ahead to the first lock at Gatun
Looking ahead to the first lock at Gatun
Looking ahead from the first lock at Gatun & freighter ahead of us
Looking ahead from the first lock at Gatun & freighter ahead of us
First lock draining so we can proceed
First lock draining so we can proceed
Gates opening to first lock at Gatun
Gates opening to first lock at Gatun
We proceed to first lock at Gatun
We proceed to first lock at Gatun
Panama Canal pilot on the ship's bridge
Panama Canal pilot on the ship’s bridge
We are in the first lock at Gatun
We are in the first lock at Gatun
Ship's photographers walking across the lock gates at Gatun
Ship’s photographers walking across the lock gates at Gatun
Gates opening to second lock at Gatun
Gates opening to second lock at Gatun
Engine holds us steady in second lock at Gatun & Gatun control building
Engine holds us steady in second lock at Gatun & Gatun control building
Joe - I was there
Joe – I was there
Double lock doors in front of us while we wait for third lock to fill
Double lock doors in front of us while we wait for third lock to fill
Third lock gates opened so we can sail through Gatun Lake
Third lock gates opened so we can sail through Gatun Lake
Gatun Lake dam
Gatun Lake dam
Cement plant & other construction materials for new third lock being built
Cement plant & other construction materials for new third lock being built
Leaving Gatun Locks
Leaving Gatun Locks
Auto carrier in Gatun Lake - Indiana Highway
Auto carrier in Gatun Lake – Indiana Highway
Freighters passing in navigation channel
Freighters passing in navigation channel
Rain storm on the lake
Rain storm on the lake
Navigation channel widening in the lake
Navigation channel widening in the lake
Approaching Gamboa, the end of the navigation channel on the lake
Approaching Gamboa, the end of the navigation channel on the lake
Jungle along the lake shoreline
Jungle along the lake shoreline
Titan giant crane at the dredging HQ
Titan giant crane at the dredging HQ
US Pump Station & bridge at Gamboa
US Pump Station & bridge at Gamboa
Dredge
Dredge
Dredger deck
Dredger deck
Dredge floating pipe
Dredge floating pipe
Proceeding through the Cut with Contractor's Hill & cable-stayed bridge visible
Proceeding through the Cut with Contractor’s Hill & cable-stayed bridge visible
Slope stabilisation in the Cut
Slope stabilisation in the Cut
Contractor's Hill fish-eye view
Contractor’s Hill fish-eye view
Refreshments being served on the bow as the ship approaches Pedro Miguel Locks
Refreshments being served on the bow as the ship approaches Pedro Miguel Locks
New navigation channel approaching Pedro Miguel Locks
New navigation channel approaching Pedro Miguel Locks
New navigation channel construction above Pedro Miguel Locks
New navigation channel construction above Pedro Miguel Locks
Panama Canal Railway train
Panama Canal Railway train
Approaching Petro Miguel Lock
Approaching Petro Miguel Lock
Spectators watching Rotterdam transit
Spectators watching Rotterdam transit
Freighter leaving lock into Miraflores Lake
Freighter leaving lock into Miraflores Lake
Freighter beside us in next lane of lock with engines steadying her
Freighter beside us in next lane of lock with engines steadying her
Looking forward at freighter beside us in next lane of lock - fish-eye view
Looking forward at freighter beside us in next lane of lock – fish-eye view
Contruction of new locks beside Miraflores Lake
Contruction of new locks beside Miraflores Lake
Crocodile in Miraflores Lake
Crocodile in Miraflores Lake
Approaching Miraflores Locks
Approaching Miraflores Locks
Miraflores dam and adjacent lane in locks
Miraflores dam and adjacent lane in locks
Bridge of Americas across navigation channel
Bridge of Americas across navigation channel
Panama City towers visible over the jungle covered hills
Panama City towers visible over the jungle covered hills
New shipping channel
New shipping channel
Dredges
Dredges
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Corinth isthmus & Peloponnese peninsula

Greece 2006

April 9, 2006 – Sunday – Circle Tour – Corinth isthmus & Peloponnese peninsula

Today is a full day tour with Paul, since getting to these sites without a car is difficult. Paul picks me up at 8am and we head out of Athens.

Corinth Canal

Bridges over the Corinth Canal with a ship passing through
Bridges over the Corinth Canal with a ship passing through

First stop is the north end of the Corinth Canal between the Aegean Sea and the Gulf of Corinth. It is obviously a very strategic waterway, since it eliminates sailing around the very large Peloponnese peninsula. Nero started the canal in 66 A.D., and used slaves and prisoners to dig 3.3km of the 6.3km total distance before having to abandon the project when he was arrested in Rome. The canal project wasn’t restarted again until 1882, and completed in 1893, paid for by the Greek government but built by private contractors. Sinking bridges at either end accommodate local traffic, however the expressway and other major roads go over top.

Ancient Corinth & Acrocorinth

Temple of Apollo at Ancient Corinth with Acrocorinth in the distance
Temple of Apollo at Ancient Corinth with Acrocorinth in the distance

Next is Ancient Corinth (€6 admission). There are lots of interesting ruins here and a decent museum. The Temple of Apollo’s pillars dominate the Agora site, but the Lechaion Road, Fountain of Peirene and basilica offer a glimpse into daily life under Greek, Tyrant, and Roman rule. Aerial video

Acrocorinth is visible from this site, located 565m above the ancient city. Paul drives up the mountain to the first gate, and then I climb the steep and rocky roads through the three gates built by various occupiers of this strategic fortress. I can’t face the 4 km climb to the top where the Acropolis is located.

Joe climbing the cobblestone road to the third Acrocorinth gate
Joe climbing the cobblestone road to the third Acrocorinth gate

Aerial video used with permission: Tasos Fotakis – DroneWorks

Mycenae

Next stop is Mycenae and the Treasure of Atreus (€8 admission). Perhaps this is the most interesting site I see today, although it is less dramatic visually. Mycenae (and other ancient sites in the area) were inhabited by advanced civilizations hundreds of years before Christ (BC), proving that the tales told by Homer were based on fact. Mycenae is located on a low hill, and the Treasure of Atreus is located in a beehive shaped structure nearby. Actually, the treasures are now located in Athens at the National Archaeological Museum. The gold masks are a must see when you visit the Museum.

Grave Circle A - Mycenae
Grave Circle A – Mycenae

Palamidhi Fortress & Nafplio

Palamidhi Castle walls and gun emplacements with Argos Bay behind
Palamidhi Castle walls and gun emplacements with Argos Bay

There are 900 steps to climb up to the Palamidhi Fortress from the pretty coastal town of Nafplio, however I opt to drive up (€6 admission). Palamidhi Fortress overlooks the town below, and the Bourtzi Fortress on Ayiou Theodhorou islet in Argos Bay. This is perhaps the most impressive fortress I’ve ever visited. It is perched on a steep hill, and the views are breathtaking. Like Acrocorinth, strenuous climbing is involved in exploring the site!

Epidaurus

Ancient outdoor amphitheatre of Epidaurus
Ancient outdoor amphitheatre of Epidaurus

Ancient Epidaurus, Theatre – (€6 admisson) – This ancient outdoor theatre is still used today to stage performances. It is not as large or as well decorated as the theatres we saw in Libya at Leptis Magna and Sabratha, however it is an impressive theatre nonetheless, and apparently has perfect acoustics. It dates to the 3rd and 4th centuries BC, and is part of a larger complex of buildings, including a sanitarium.

Return to Athens

Expressway from Corinth to Athens, twin tunnels

It has been a long day, but very productive and rewarding, since I experienced so many ancient sites, thanks to Paul’s intimate knowledge. I go to the Ayah restaurant again this evening for dinner, and have chicken and rice with Rocket salad – excellent!

Greek restaurants will dress most salads with oil and vinegar before serving unless you catch them first. As well, olive oil is poured on almost all main courses.