Kaua’i, Hawai’i

Port of call on a 2010 South Pacific Cruise from Vancouver to Auckland aboard the Volendam

Sep 29, 2010 – Wednesday – Volendam arrives in Kaua’i

I get up around 8:30am and go for breakfast in the Lido. I have an omelette made to order, and have my breakfast on the outside deck; the first al fresco dining for me on this trip, since it is now 24°C in the morning.

Rotterdam moored in Nawiliwili Harbour
Rotterdam moored in Nawiliwili Harbour

We dock in Nawiliwili this afternoon at 5:20pm, and we don’t leave port until tomorrow afternoon. The Rotterdam is also docked in the harbour as we arrive. She departs about an hour later – a lovely sight. As our gangway is put in place, complete with red carpet, a rain shower starts up – “welcome to Kauai”. We all stay aboard the ship this evening.

Lance Ringnald doing an acrobatic performance using hanging silks
Lance Ringnald doing an acrobatic performance using hanging silks

As we dine in the Canaletto, an Italian menu restaurant on the Lido Deck, we are a couple of tables away from the Captain. Afterward, we go to the Frans Hals Lounge, where Lance Ringnald is doing an acrobatic performance. He is a past Olympic gymnast winner for the USA and is now 40 years old, but is still in great shape and puts on a very entertaining show. He uses hanging silks like Cirque de Soleil does, along with some jokes and banter to the audience (he is wearing a microphone). I shoot some video, since he says he has no problem with flash photos or video. Normally neither are allowed during performances in the show lounge.

Sep 30, 2010 – Thursday – Kaua’i

Joe & Wendy wandering a beach
Joe & Wendy wandering a beach

I set my alarm last night to get up at 7:30am, since I want to beat the crowds disembarking today. I am out of my cabin and up to the Lido for breakfast: scrambled eggs, sausage, bacon and toast. My friends and I then catch the Hertz shuttle to the airport, where I have reserved a very nice Nissan Altima. We decide to drive up the eastern and northern coasts of Kauai to a bit past the Hanalei Valley. We stop to see the Kilauea Lighthouse and for a swim near Anini Beach, and we are back into town to return our rental car by 3PM. We are back onboard the ship by 3:30pm…well ahead of the 4:30pm “All Aboard” deadline.

My friends and I have visited Kaua’i before, so this visit brings back good memories for all of us – it was a most enjoyable day!

The Grand Nawiliwili Sail Away party is hosted by Holland America as Volendam sailed out of Nawiliwili Harbour. In order to compensate for the missed stop in Maui there are free drinks and snacks, so I have a couple of gin and tonics. The headlands of Kauai are beautiful as we sail away while the sun sets. I sure didn’t need any wine with dinner when we dined later at the Italian restaurant Canaletto.


Cruising Seattle to Hawaii

2010 South Pacific Cruise from Vancouver to Auckland aboard the Volendam

Volendam's Atrium: Promenade Deck 4 - Front Office & Shore Tours. Ocean Bar Deck 5 above
Volendam’s Atrium: Promenade Deck 4 – Front Office & Shore Tours. Ocean Bar Deck 5 above

I am really enjoying myself aboard Volendam. She is a very nice ship, and the crew are absolutely first rate. Despite the ship being ten years old, there are few signs of wear and tear. All the fixtures and rooms are in excellent shape. Nothing is too much trouble for my cabin stewards, and the staff always have a friendly smile on their faces and greet every passenger. I’m surprised to find that there is a good mix of ages aboard the Volendam. It isn’t just old people aboard, although they certainly are the majority. There are lots of middle-aged people, and I even spotted an officer with his wife and two young kids.

Here is our cruise to Hawai’i as it unfolds day by day.

Sept 24, 2010 – Friday – Volendam at sea, enroute Seattle to Lahaina

Last night the ship was really pounding into the oncoming waves. The wind picked up to 32-47mph during the night, so I found it a bit uncomfortable at the start. Eventually, I relaxed and fell asleep. At breakfast we find out that Donna Giesler “The Star Lady” is on the program as an Explorations Speaker. We previously met Donna on the Southern Skies Fiesta in Costa Rica 2009 tour. We attend her talk this morning, and have some fun reconnecting with her afterward. Donna is thrilled to find out there are other dedicated amateur astronomers aboard.

Turn back from Hawaii route off the Oregon Coast - map
Turn back from Hawaii route off the Oregon Coast

At 2pm the captain announces we have a medical emergency, so the ship will head back toward the Oregon coast. A few hours later a helicopter airlifts a man off the ship, after which the ship turns back to resume our course for Lahaina. Dinner this evening is formal dress, so everyone is wearing their best in the Rotterdam Dining Room – a beautifully appointed large two level room in the stern with big windows overlooking the ocean. Both the service and food is impeccable.

Sept 25, 2010 – Saturday – Volendam at sea, enroute Seattle to Lahaina

We crossed a time zone last night, so our clocks go back one hour. We are now one hour earlier than the Pacific Time zone we left in Vancouver and Seattle. We had another night of rocking and rolling as we continue to battle our way against a strong (35-40mph) southerly wind. I slept fine, as did the others in my group. I have a cappuccino and a muffin in the Explorer’s Lounge for breakfast this morning, since there is a line-up for the Rotterdam Dining Room (the other source of Cappuccino in the morning). I have to have my Cappuccino to start my day! Yesterday’s medical evacuation put us behind schedule by several hours, and so far the ship has not been able to make up the time because of the rough seas. Hopefully we will soon be in calmer waters, where she can make more headway and get us to Lahaina on time. I really want to take the snorkel/sail trip I have booked for the West Maui coast.

JoeTourist: Activities & Services &emdash; The Star Lady - Donna Giesler demonstrating how to use a Planisphere

This afternoon I attend the Astronomy Club, an interactive session hosted by Donna Giesler, the “Star Lady”. She reviewed how stargazing usually works onboard cruise ships, and introduced everyone to planispheres. As it turns out, cruise ships are excellent sources of light pollution, having extremely well-lit decks and other outside spaces. This makes it very difficult to take advantage of the extremely dark skies that would otherwise be visible from a mid-ocean voyage. The session finishes up with my friend showing his time lapse video of the night sky Northern Stars Overnight, taken from Yellow Point Lodge on Vancouver Island, Canada.

Sept 26, 2010 – Sunday – Volendam at sea, enroute Seattle to Lahaina

JoeTourist: Food &emdash; Filet Mignon & giant prawns in the Pinnacle Grill

This evening, we go to the Pinnacle Grill, which is an exclusive restaurant aboard Volendam. The meals and service are classic and flawless – a notch up from even the Rotterdam Dining Room, which already sets a high mark. I have a spicy coconut milk soup to start, Filet Mignon and giant prawns for the main course, and a chocolate soufflé and cappuccino to finish. Others in my group have Rack of Lamb and Steak Diane (which is flambéed at the table). Well worth the $20 per person premium charge, although the three of us have complementary invitations from our tour company. We will be back for more!

We check out the top-most deck Donna proposes observing from this evening. It is still incredibly windy due to the oncoming 33 knot wind we are still bucking. We give it up, since it is impossible to hold still long enough to observe anything. This is a shame, since we have clear skies. Jupiter is up, as well as the Gibbous Moon. The Summer Triangle is directly overhead, and I’m sure we could observe other objects if only the wind would abate long enough for the ship to steady.

Sept 27, 2010 – Monday – Volendam at sea, enroute Seattle to Kauai

I sleep in again this morning. It is warm enough today to swim in the pools, if only the seas would smooth out. I have a light breakfast in the Lido, and then go back downstairs to retrieve my notebook computer, and then trudge back upstairs to the Explorations Café for a cappuccino. If I continue to use the stairs, I’ll stay in shape while aboard this ship! Many of the older folks have Kindles, and are busy reading their books…many more are reading printed books, of course. There are a group of people having a church service in a bar right between the casino and main atrium area where the jewellery and duty free liquor is sold. Quite a series of contrasts!

Vancouver to Hawaii - route map across the North Pacific Ocean
Vancouver to Hawaii – route map across the North Pacific Ocean

Despite being four days out of Seattle heading south, we continue to battle strong winds and heavy seas. Over the last 24 hours, the outside temperature has climbed to nearly 20°C and passengers are now out in deck chairs, and sitting beside the pools in their shorts and swimsuits. However we all continue to lurch down the passageways as the ship pitches and rolls in radical fashion. Until a few hours ago, we were battling southerly, and then south-westerly winds between 25kts and 45 kts. The wind continues to be strong at 30kts, but it has now switched around, and is coming at us from the north. I’m feeling fine, as is the rest of my group, but some passengers and crew are seasick. I think everyone is looking forward to our arrival in Hawai’i. Hopefully we will find calmer waters for the rest of our journey through the tropics!

At 3pm today the captain addresses the ship, telling us that we will not be stopping at Lahaina on Maui. The combination of losing so much time due to backtracking for the medical evacuation on the 24th and the exceedingly rough seas and storm force winds means there is no way to make up for lost time. We will be proceeding to Nawiliwili Harbour, Lihue, Kauai (which was our next scheduled stop). This means at least one more day at sea, however by my estimate we should easily arrive on time in Kauai on the 30th. Everyone I talked with seemed to be fine with this deviation. Our shore excursions will be refunded, as will our port fees for Lahaina.

We are currently 870 miles from Kauai, proceeding at 20kts. Daytime temperature is 24C, so things are warming up nicely outside.

Sep 28, 2010 – Tuesday – Volendam at sea, enroute Seattle to Kauai

The captain announces we will arrive in Nawiliwili on Kauai tomorrow at 5pm, so we will be staying overnight, leaving the following afternoon. This is great, since it will give us more time on Kauai, and makes our car rental the following day more appealing, since we will be able to get away from the crowds.

JoeTourist: Activities & Services &emdash; Tissue-wrapped socks & underwear in a basket as delivered from the ship's laundry

It is formal night again this evening. We have reservations in the Rotterdam Dining Room for 5:30pm. My laundry appears in my cabin this afternoon just in time for me to use my only white dress shirt for this evening. They have pressed all my clothes, including the t-shirts. My socks and underwear were wrapped in tissue paper, sealed with a gold sticker, delivered in a woven basket. Pretty deluxe!

At 8pm this evening, we join Donna Giesler and some others up on the top deck to observe the night sky. Donna has already requested that the deck lights be turned off, so it is pretty dark up there. We observe the sky below Sagittarius into Scorpius, so that is a real treat, since from our home northern latitude we can’t see this far south. The Summer Triangle is directly overhead, as is Cygnus. The Milky Way glows brightly, especially in Sagittarius.



Port of call on a 2010 South Pacific Cruise from Vancouver to Auckland aboard the Volendam

Sept 23, 2010 – Thursday – Volendam in Seattle, Washington, USA

We arrive in Seattle on time at 7am. I discover my cabin is near a big noisy winch motor, which starts up as the ship approaches the dock. I rest in bed for another half hour before getting up and join my friends for breakfast in the Lido. Lots of passengers are disembarking in Seattle, so it is pretty busy this morning. I plan to walk to Myrtle Edwards Park on the harbour, and then go to the Space Needle, so I wear a raincoat and leave the ship a bit after 9am. There is a mist coming down, but it isn’t too bad. I find out where the entrance to the Elliott Bay corridor park is located, and start off. In true Seattle fashion, the mist soon turns to light rain, and then it really settles in and I am starting to get wet. I pull my camera bag’s raincoat over it, and put up my hood, and then decide to wait it out under a tree. No such luck – it looks like the rain is here to stay for the day, so I head back to Pier 91 and re-board the Volendam.

Chris Paris behind the Explorations Espresso Bar
Chris Paris behind the Explorations Espresso Bar

After drying off, I find the Explorations Café and Lounge, order a cappuccino, and settle in with my notebook computer. I think this will be my usual haunt, since it is quiet here, the view is great, and it is an Internet hotspot. I experiment with the ship’s Wi-Fi, ensuring auto login is off. I’m in good shape for staying connected while crossing the Pacific Ocean.

The Rotterdam Dining Room
The Rotterdam Dining Room

My friends and I go to the Rotterdam Dining Room for dinner at 7pm this evening, however all the open seating is taken until 8pm. We sit in the Explorer’s Lounge until then. We are seated on the upper deck of the Rotterdam Dining Room, which is normally reserved for fixed seating. It is a very elegant dining room, and needless to say, it is huge. Service is excellent, the food is very nice, and probably what surprised us all…the portions are not too big. We all have Scallop Ceviche for an appetizer and Alaska King Crab Legs for our main course. I have a tiny Caesar Salad and an equally tiny chocolate cake for dessert, with a cappuccino to finish. All in all, everyone agrees it is a very satisfying meal.

Volendam's departure route from Seattle - map
Volendam’s departure route from Seattle

By the time we leave the dining room at 10pm, the ship has cleared Cape Flattery and is taking a 10-15 mph wind from the south. We are currently on a westerly heading, however I expect we will soon swing around to a SW heading, since my handheld GPS tells me that is the direction to Lahaina, Maui – our first stop in Hawaii. Distance to Lahaina is 2,253 nmi or 4,157 km. Our speed is 16kts, so that means it will take us 5 days, 21 hours to arrive. By 11:20pm, the ship has changed heading to 223° (SW) and the wind has increased to 23mph still from the SW. I tried to connect to the onboard Internet, but no go. There is no on-board cellular service either, so I suspect the satellite link is being disrupted by the pitching of the ship.


Departing Vancouver aboard Volendam

Wednesday, September 22, 2010 – the start of the South Pacific Cruise

Pacific Coach Lines (now the BC Ferries Connector) takes us from Victoria across the water to the mainland on BC Ferries to the Canada Place Cruise Terminal in Vancouver without a hitch. They drop us off right inside the terminal, and our bags are delivered to our cabin aboard ship…what terrific service!

Boarding the Volendam is pretty easy, despite having to go through three stages before actually stepping aboard: security screening (like airports), US Customs and Immigration, then Holland America’s own check-in.

Somehow I manage to leave my dress jacket at home, so once I’m settled in my cabin, I leave the ship and make a quick dash to Dunn’s Tailors on lower Granville Street where I buy a new dress jacket. So now I will be ready for the seven formal nights we have scheduled while on board this 30-day cruise. I arrive back on board in time for the compulsory lifejacket drill, just before our departure.

Leaving Lions Gate Bridge behind as Volendam departs Vancouver Harbour
Leaving Lions Gate Bridge behind as Volendam departs Vancouver Harbour

The Volendam slips away from the dock at 5PM, and we are on our way! There are some passengers who boarded today in Vancouver and who will leave the ship tomorrow in Seattle – a one day overnight cruise! No doubt they will party hard tonight to take advantage of all the fun stuff aboard.

Sailing under Lions Gate Bridge is spectacular this evening, with great views of the North Shore Mountains, the harbour, and Stanley Park. It brings back memories of when I sailed under the same bridge in 1981 aboard the Cunard Princess bound for the Caribbean. Everyone is very excited as we pass under the bridge, but then it is time for dinner. We opt for a BBQ dinner served alfresco on the (covered) Lido deck beside the pool. We watch the sun set over Georgia Strait and Vancouver Island as the ship slowly makes its way overnight to Seattle.