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Sarapiqui River Rafting

Feb 12, 2008 – Tuesday – Sueño Azul Hotel to the Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort near Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

As I sit on the deck this morning before breakfast, I see a Kingfisher dive for his breakfast, and the Snowy Egret is wading in the pond, along with many other birds in the trees. It has rained off and on more or less continuously since we arrived at the Sueño Azul Hotel. Despite being quite a long way from the Caribbean coast, this area is only about 60 metres about sea level, so it is very wet and tropical here.

After check-out, we drive the short distance to the Hacienda Pozo Azul Butterfly Garden in La Virgen, so I get a second chance to see the butterflies and manage to take some good photos. We then continue to a drop off point for our river rafting on the Sarapiqui River. I think everyone was a bit concerned about the river rafting, however this is a Class 1 trip, which means no white water, no helmets or strap-ins needed – just a gentle float down a calm river.

Red and black Postman butterfly

It rains hard for the first few minutes as we load onto the inflatable rafts, but we have perfect weather for the whole 2-hour trip down the river. There are three or four sections where the water runs a bit faster, but nothing I would call rapids. I think everyone has fun. I certainly enjoyed myself, since we have very cute boat men. We see lots of wildlife up close, including a Jesus Christ lizard, Howler monkeys, a snake swimming across the river, tiny bats roosting in the trees on the shoreline, and countless birds. There is juice and fruit waiting for us at the end of the trip.

Jesus Christ lizard being held by our boatman

Our bus driver Walter then drives us to La Fortuna, where we have a wonderful lunch at the Don Rufino restaurant mid-afternoon. When we arrive at the Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort, they have drinks waiting for us, give us express check-in, and deliver our luggage from the bus to our rooms. Speaking of the rooms, they are deluxe – the best grade hotel we’ve stayed at for the whole trip.

The skies are cloudy and there are frequent rain showers at this location. I don’t see how we are going to hike in these conditions tomorrow, but according to Diego and Steven they plan to take us onto an Arenal Volcano lava flow tomorrow morning starting at 8am. We will then visit the volcano observatory and have lunch before returning to the Tabacón in early afternoon.

Tomorrow is when we can go to the Spa, or just soak in the hot pools. For this evening, Steven is suggesting we try to photograph the glowing boulders rolling down the mountain using time exposures with our cameras. That might work if we can find a perspective from our hotel location where we can clearly see the volcano’s flank.

Our dinner at the hotel this evening is later than usual at 7:30pm, in order to give us time to digest our sumptuous lunch. We have the Chinese-themed buffet at the Spa restaurant this evening. The food is very good, but it is quite noisy due to the whole spa complex beside the restaurant being very busy since it doesn’t close until 10pm.

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La Selva Preserve

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 11, 2008 – Monday – La Selva Preserve, Sarapiqui Rain Forest, Heredia, Costa Rica

We visit the nearby La Selva Preserve this morning, which is a biological research station focused on the rain forest. Our guide is a bird nesting researcher, so he is very knowledgeable about the many birds we encounter on our nature walk. He also has interesting stories to tell about La Selva itself, as well as the flora and fauna in the preserve. He catches a Blue-black Grassquit to show us the feathers, and we also see a poison dart frog on the forest floor (Oophaga). He calls the birds to us using a portable speaker he drives with a bird song database from Cornell.

Oophaga - poison dart frog on the forest floor

Our guide Diego conducts a walking tour near the hotel this afternoon, but I just want some down time, so I don’t go. It is wonderful to just sit on the deck overlooking the lagoon; watching and listening to the rain come down in showers, and observing the interesting wildlife, which is so close. As I explore the hotel grounds, I also discover some unique features of Sueño Azul Hotel, including high wire acrobatic apparatus, and a horse barn with a riding ring. Then there’s the previously mentioned pedestrian foot bridge across the river, providing guests with their main access to the hotel.

My wildlife spotting list from this amazing tropical area just for yesterday and today reveals an abundant diversity!

Cherrie's tanager perched on a branch in the rainforest
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Poas Volcano & Sarapiqui

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 10, 2008 – Sunday – San Jose to Poas Volcano to Sarapiqui Rainforest, Costa Rica

Costa Rica Pura Vida frog coaster
Costa Rica Pura Vida frog coaster

I have a nice omelet for breakfast this morning in the Marriott before we leave San Jose. Our new, smaller group departs a little after 8am, driving north out of the city through coffee plantations in Alajuela. Our first stop is Doka Estate Coffee Plantation for a rest break, where I have a very well-made cappuccino, and I purchase a coaster with a Costa Rican frog motif embossed on it.

Nearby Póas Volcano is our next destination. Since this is Sunday, the place is crowded with Costa Ricans. The weather is notoriously fickle on top of this volcano. Our group hikes from the visitor centre to the main viewpoint, and as we arrive the clouds part for about a minute. Unfortunately I don’t take any photos before the clouds completely obscure everything again!

Steven O’Meara is on this trip as an expert in volcanoes. While we wait for the clouds to part, he stands on his Pelican case and gives us an impromptu presentation on the special features of Poas, and shares a general dissertation on global warming and how volcanoes are contributing to the problem in a major way. After about a half hour, the clouds blow away for 10 minutes or so, giving us a good photo opportunity before we leave Poas Volcano.

Our next stop is to see some spectacular falls along the road that follows the Sarapiqui River northward and then east over the mountains through the town of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui. We have a late lunch along the way at Hacienda Pozo Azul Adventures, where the restaurant has a butterfly house with some very nice tropical butterflies. It’s free admission, however I only have a few minutes to take some photos before we depart, heading southeast.

We pull off onto a side road and park while our luggage is loaded into a pickup truck and taken to the Sueño Azul Hotel. We drive a bit further, and everyone walks across the river on a foot bridge, directly to the hotel grounds. Once I am settled in my room overlooking one of the many lagoons on the property, I observe several birds from my deck: a Snowy Egret and a Green Heron are fishing in the lagoon, and also several colourful birds are in the nearby trees.

A pair of Silver-beaked Tanagers

We leave the hotel after dark for the Tirimbina Rainforest Center, where we are given a wonderful introduction to the bats which are found in the area. One of the rangers catches several bats and brings them inside so we can look at them up close. They are fascinating creatures, and so small and cute. Their little faces are all screwed up, since they are so frightened by being handled, but they are soon released back into the night by members of our group. After returning back to the hotel and navigating the foot bridge once again, we have a very nice late dinner at 9pm.

Bat being gently handled
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Return to San Jose from La Ensenda Lodge

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 9, 2008 – Saturday – La Ensenada “Star” Lodge to San Jose, Costa Rica

We spend our last morning at the Lodge comparing observing notes from the night before. Several of the group pulled all-nighters, since the sky was so wonderful. I think it was perhaps the all-time best observing evening I’ve ever experienced. It was warm, the magnitude 6 sky was steady and crystal clear, and of course the temperature was very comfortable at about 25 Celsius. The bonus was virtually no mosquitoes. I don’t know where they went, but it was a welcome relief.

During our time here, I visually observed more than a dozen southern sky objects visible from this latitude of 10 degrees north. Observing from here has driven home the point that I must travel to the southern hemisphere (South Africa, New Zealand or Australia) sometime in the near future. Observing from those locations will reveal a whole new sky to me. After my trip to New Zealand and Fiji in 2004, I’m convinced that the southern hemisphere has more than its fair share of superb celestial objects, and I must add some of them to my observing log within the next few years.

Before leaving the lodge, we have a group photo taken with our guides and lodge staff, settle our bills, leave some tips for the staff, and then climb aboard the bus bound for San Jose. It is a long drive over the mountains, however we stop for lunch at Sarchi. This is also the tourist trap: t-shirts and caps, knickknacks, and the painted ox carts and furniture Sarchi artisans are famous for. After we check-in back at the Courtyard Marriott in San Jose, it’s nice to have a hot shower and get the dust washed off. It’s also wonderful to connect to the Internet, catch up on the news, and post to my JoeTourist travelogue.

We attend a farewell dinner at the nearby Laguagua Cuban restaurant this evening. It is very noisy with a band playing and the service is slow, but it’s nice to have one last meal together before most of the group return home. Some of us are staying in Costa Rica for a few more days to continue on with the Volcanoes and Rainforest tour (starting tomorrow).

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La Ensenada Lodge – Day 4

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 8, 2008 – Friday – La Ensenada “Star” Lodge, Abangaritos, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

This is our last full day at La Ensenada “Star” Lodge. Before sunrise, I see Rigel Kentaurus and Hadar with the Southern Cross in the beautiful pre-dawn light. I then go on our final nature walk this morning as the Sun rises. We spot lots of interesting wildlife, including a Cane Toad in the dining room as we gather, and then a Green heron on a snag in an algae-covered pond, a Clay-coloured Robin
Clay-coloured Robin, Southern white-crowned shrike, Squirrel Cuckoo, and a Tropical Kingbird perched in trees.

Crux and other southern constellations in the pre-dawn southeastern sky

I sign up for a horse ride this morning. We all have a good time; especially considering none of us have ridden horses for many years. The last time I rode a horse was when I was an early teen. The horses are very well trained, and the ride is an interesting two hours going all around the ranch. We go to the top of a hill overlooking the coastline, and ride around the hill where the tractor ride took us previously. I take some video which captures the experience pretty well, despite all the bouncing around I was doing while on horseback. We even see a pair of Double-striped Thick-knee birds run across the pasture grass.

After lunch, two musicians play the xylophone tandem in the bar/lounge. Otherwise, our afternoon is free of activities. I have a nap after dinner, waking up around 7:30pm to clear skies! This is the opportunity I have been waiting for all week. I take a time lapse of the southern horizon over a 3 hour period until midnight, which shows some of the southern celestial objects in the sky as they rise. I then setup the Astrotrac after finding a spot where I can see Polaris, finally getting a good polar alignment. Now I’m cooking! I image the Eta Carina region, and then move to Crux, imaging the Southern Cross and the Coalsack dark nebula.

Decorative ox carts

Feb 9, 2008 – early morning, Saturday – While the camera is imaging the Southern Cross region, I process the Eta Carinae images since I can see they are quite good. Finally, I’m happy with some results from this dark sky location! Both my friend and I are up until 4am imaging the night sky, since this is our last chance. Several of our group pull all-nighters, since the sky is so wonderful. I think it is perhaps the all-time best observing evening I’ve ever experienced. It is warm, the magnitude 6 sky is steady and crystal clear, the temperature is very comfortable at about 25º Celsius, and there are no mosquitoes!

Eta Carina region of the Milky Way
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La Ensenada Lodge & Carara Park – Day 3

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 7, 2008 – Thursday – La Ensenada “Star” Lodge & Carara National Park, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Our guide Diego and bus driver Walter take us on a day-long trip to Carara National Park today. First stop is to see some 33 big crocodiles under the Taracoles bridge along the way. After we arrive at the start of our little hike, there is some rain from the tree canopy falling on us. Along the trail we see some Leaf-cutting ants, 2 Scarlet Macaws in a tree (a thrilling sight), a Slaty-tailed trogan hiding in the trees, a huge Black Spiny-Tailed Iguana, and air plants flourishing on the high branches. The Cicadas fill the forest with their chirping sound.

Leaf-cutting ants

We have a very nice buffet lunch at Hotel Villa Lapas, which is located in a gully along a nearby river. Diego points out the Noni bush – supposedly a miracle health plant that is currently all the rage with the Ticos. We return through Miramar and stop for a swim at the beach at Caldera, just south of Puntarenas. I spot the 4-masted SV Legacy sailing ship anchored in the bay, which was formerly operated by Windjammer Barefoot Cruises. Diego and Walter serve us watermelon and cold water – again, a nice touch.

Purple Flowering Banana (Musa ornata)

I have been frustrated with my astrophotography efforts while staying at La Ensenada “Star” Lodge. The skies are nice and dark (around mag 6.0), but Polaris is very low in the northern sky. This makes polar alignment with the Astrotrac tracking mount very difficult. The first night I tried to just take a north line across the field from where I was setup using a GPS, but that didn’t get me close enough, so I ended up frustrated with poor quality photos.

The second night I borrowed a telescope from the Sky and Telescope folks, so I could visually observe. I hadn’t brought any binoculars with me, which in hindsight was an oversight. My friend showed me the basics of drift alignment, which enabled me to align my Astrotrac much better the second night, so I could take some astro-photos. As I write this on our third night, it is quite cloudy – frustrating!

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La Ensenada Lodge – Day 2

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 6, 2008 – Wednesday – La Ensenada “Star” Lodge, Abangaritos, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

On our early morning nature walk this morning, we spot a Rufous Motmot, Screech Owl, a Black Spiny-Tailed Iguana out in the open, a Clay-coloured Robin, and a Tropical Kingbird. Costa Rica is a birder’s paradise, especially during migration season!

We go on a boat ride to see the mangrove that is located just around the point from where we are staying. Several of the group that went yesterday were soaked on the way back from the oncoming swells in the late afternoon, but we did much better. Only one member of our group was hit by the wash. It was a rewarding trip, since we cruised right up close to several birds and even a baby alligator was sunning himself on a small log and stayed around long enough for us to get some photos. Birds spotted: Brown Pelicans, a Kestrel in flight, Whimbrel, Roseate Spoonbill, Snowy Egret, and Royal Terns when we return to the dock in front of the lodge.

Roseate Spoonbills

After turning on my cellphone this evening, it shows a decent signal, so I call home to check in with the family. We have another clear night, so I’m out on the observing field marvelling at the Zodiacal Light – the first time I’ve observed this phenomenon. I try to capture a time lapse of the Zodiacal Light, but it doesn’t work out. I pack it in for the night at 9PM since I’m tired from the day’s activities.

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La Ensenada Lodge – Day 1

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 5, 2008 – Tuesday – La Ensenada “Star” Lodge, Abangaritos, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Early morning wildlife walks are conducted by our guide Diego every day we are at the lodge. The main draw is the variety of birds, however iguanas, squirrels, vegetation, flowers, and the farm animals are also observed by our group. For those of us who are dedicated night sky observers, we sometimes join the wildlife walks as the Sun rises, before having breakfast and then going to bed!

Rufous motmot in a tree

I don’t have high expectations for the Tractor Ride this afternoon, however it turns out to be a memorable experience. The owners of La Ensenada are Italians, and their son Giancarlo guides the hour and a half Tractor Ride all over the property. We see their salt ponds, horses and Brahma cattle grazing in the pastures, stop at the Aguna Observatory wildlife observing platform at a pond. Along the way we spot lots of birds and iguanas, and near the end we wind up a narrow road to the top of a hill overlooking the property and the Gulf of Nicoya. Giancarlo’s Mama serves us some superb antipasto, beer and soft drinks while we take in the view. What a nice touch! By the way, the passenger wagon we are seated in is being pulled by an Italian Landini tractor.

The group having snacks and beverages atop the scenic hill

It is clear this evening, so I take a series of wide field photos of the Taurus-Eridanus-Aires area, and then the Orion area later. Eridanus – The Celestial River – is a very large constellation near Orion, but it hugs the southern horizon from our nothern latitude, so observing it from Costa Rica means it is much higher in the sky. I then capture a series of photos of the spectacular Eta Carinae Nebula before midnight, however my tracking mount isn’t properly aligned with north, so the photos are not very useful. So this evening is rewarding for visual observing, however I have to refine my astrophotography technique.

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San Jose to La Ensenada Lodge

Feb 4, 2008 – Monday – San Jose to La Ensenada “Star” Lodge, Costa Rica

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

The buffet breakfast in our hotel this morning is included in our tour, so I have a nice Spanish omelet and some very good coffee and juice. There is no rush, since we don’t leave for La Ensenada “Star” Lodge until 10:30am. Our Tico Guide is Diego and Walter is our driver, both from Swiss Tours. Our Travelquest Host is Chuck (from Phoenix), who I met at breakfast as well as Gary Seronik, who is taking care of hosting the astronomy activities. Gary is a Contributing Editor for Sky and Telescope magazine, lives in Victoria, and is a member of RASC Victoria Centre. Rick Feinberg, the Editor-in-chief for S&T is also with us on this tour along with his wife.

Everyone is on the bus on-time and ready to go, with the first stop being a large mall. We have a chance to shop in a local AM/PM and also exchange money for those who need some Colones. We then cross the Central Valley and the hills to the Pacific Ocean, passing through Palmares, San Ramon and Esparza along the way. We stop just past Esparza for lunch at the Restaurante Caballo Blanco (White Horse Restaurant), where we have our choice of beef, chicken or fish. The folks who order the beef tenderloin say it was good, but I saw them chewing a lot! I have the grilled fish, which is served with vegetables and mashed potatoes. I’m resolved to try to avoid eating beans and rice as much as possible on this trip!

Joe on the porch of his cabin at La Ensenada "Star" Lodge
Joe on the porch of his cabin at La Ensenada “Star” Lodge

After being welcomed by the staff at the lodge, settling into our cabins and enjoying some dinner, we get out under the dark skies we came here for. I take a half dozen photos of the Orion area of the sky using my dSLR, which has been modified to allow more infrared wavelengths to hit the sensor. Orion is laying down on his side due to observing from about 10º north of the equator from this location. We are used to observing from our more northern latitude of 48.5º where Orion appears upright.

Widefield night sky centred on Orion
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Victoria to San Jose

Feb 3, 2008 – Sunday – Flying from Victoria, Canada to San Jose, Costa Rica

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Today I travel to Costa Rica. I’m up at 5:15am, do some last minute packing, say goodbye to my family, and I’m out the door at 6:20am. I drive to the Victoria airport, park in the long term parking, and check in at the Horizon counter. My checked bag is overweight by 5lbs, which costs me $25 extra – not a problem, since I can’t lug anymore carry-on luggage. The security guy asks me about the Astrotrac tracking mount for my camera, and we then get into the inevitable discussion about astronomy.

I find a power plug for my notebook in the gate area and sit down to write in my journal to kill a bit of time. My friends (who are also going to Costa Rica) arrive a few minutes after me. Our flight to SeaTac is delayed by about a half hour, but once airborne we are treated to a flight path that loops over Mill Bay, the Malahat and Victoria as we head southeast to Seattle, Washington. Despite the delayed departure, we arrive in plenty of time to find our bags, clear customs, and find the gate for our Continental flight to George Bush airport in Houston.

Portage Inlet, Gorge Waterway, Equimalt Harbour

Our flight to Houston is also a bit late taking off, however we have a smooth flight – seeing Mount Rainier (see banner image above) along the way is a treat before the clouds close in for the last part of the flight. We have less than a half hour between flights in Houston, so Continental has a motorized cart waiting for us at the gate to ensure we connect with our flight to San Jose. The gate for the connecting flight is way across the terminal, however the nice lady driving the cart gets us there with time to spare. As we find our seats, the overhead bins are full, so I keep two carry-on bags on the floor under my feet for this flight.

I’m seated beside a huge guy from Baton Rouge, Louisiana, who overflows the seat with his enormous tattooed arms and shoulders. I manage to survive by ignoring him as best I can, plugging into my music with some Shure in-ear earphones I bought awhile ago to use on this trip. They are fantastic at effectively shutting out the aircraft engine noise in particular, so when we arrive in San Jose my ears are not ringing as they normally do. The airport is controlled chaos, but we clear Costa Rican customs in short order, find our transportation, and are transferred to our hotel after only about a 20 minute wait.

The Courtyard Marriott hotel is pretty deluxe with North American style rooms with Internet connections, telephones, TV, wet bar, coffee maker and hair dryer. I take advantage of the free Internet connection to contact a few folks back home to let them know we arrived safely and will be on our way to the lodge tomorrow. Speaking about La Ensenada “Star” Lodge,I understand that it is more primitive, so it doesn’t have Internet, and even the telephone is not always working. I’m assuming my cellphone won’t work there, unlike here in San Jose where it roamed on the local provider right away.

My friends and I have some beer from the wet bar, and chat about a few things. We are excited about the astrophotography possibilities at the Lodge we are going to stay at starting tomorrow. I go to bed around 1:30am local time (11:30pm Pacific time).