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Kuching to Batang Ai

April 16, 2018 Monday – Kuching – Batang Ai, Sarawak

2018 Borneo tour

The bus leaves at 8AM, so I’m up by 6:20AM and put my bag out and have breakfast at 7AM. These early starts to the day are killing me, but at least the breakfast in our hotel is very nice, and they have cappuccino! Lemon takes over as our guide since Sarawak is his home turf.

Orangutan mother and baby
Orangutan mother and baby

Our first stop is the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, which is only about a half hour’s drive south of Kuching. This sanctuary for Orangutans is only open for an hour in the morning and a half hour in the afternoon. The morning feeding, although crowded with people is very rewarding photographically. The camera angles are better than the wildlife sanctuary in Sabah, and two Orangutan mothers show up with their babies clinging to them. I’m very happy with my photos of these fascinating creatures!

Chillies - Cili Besar & Cili Kecil - Serian Public market
Chillies – Cili Besar & Cili Kecil – Serian Public market

We then spend several hours in the bus – another endurance contest. We stop twice: once for a rest break and a visit to the local market in Serian, and a second stop for lunch at a Chinese-run local restaurant beside the road in Lachau. We all order fried rice and at Lemon’s suggestion, buy some exercise books and pencils as gifts for the Iban villagers we will be visiting tomorrow.

We end up at a jetty on an artificial lake created by a hydro electric dam, and take a launch to the Aiman Batang Ai Resort, which is located across the lake. We are now only 1°24’ north of the Equator. Temperatures are in the high 30s C and the humidity is right up there as well, so everyone is feeling the heat as we get settled into our rooms.

Kuching & Batang Ai area map
Kuching & Batang Ai area map
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Sepilok Wildlife

April 13, 2018 Friday – Sandakan to Sepilok, Sabah

2018 Borneo tour

I am up at 6AM and put my bag out to be picked up before I leave to have breakfast. The hotel has a self-serve super-automatic espresso machine, so I have two cappuccinos along with some fruit, yogurt, and pastries. I check out and board the bus by 8AM.

Proboscis Monkey drinking water
Proboscis Monkey drinking water

Everyone is onboard ahead of time, so we leave at 7:50AM for the one hour drive to the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary in time for the first feeding at 9:30AM. This is a private sanctuary for the monkeys operated by a palm plantation owner. Everyone in the group take fantastic photos and video of the monkeys, since they are only a few metres away from us. The monkeys are well-behaved, not aggressive at all.

After we have lunch in the highlands at the classic English Tea House & Garden, we drive to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, arriving in time to see the afternoon feeding. As always, our guides are well-organized and ensure everyone is at the feeding platforms ahead of the crowds, so our group all take some wonderful photos and video.

Kinabatangan, Sandakan & Sepilok area map
Kinabatangan, Sandakan & Sepilok area map

We then check in at the nearby MY Nature Resort. This is another resort run by the same company as our last lodge on the river. This travel company also supplies the guides and boats we have been using. This is a very nice resort, and thankfully the chalets are very roomy and have air conditioning, so it is much more comfortable to sleep at night.

Our guides conduct another night walk at the nearby Rainforest Discovery Centre, but again I pass on the opportunity since leeches are a very real risk at that location.

April 14, 2018 Saturday – Sepilok Orangutans and Sun Bears

Orangutan mother and baby eating a coconut at the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre
Orangutan mother and baby eating a coconut at the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre

After breakfast, we spend the full day at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, seeing both the morning and afternoon feeding of the organgutans. We also see the nursery, where young orphan orangutans are socialized, taught how to forage and build nests, and build up their strength. They are encouraged to explore the adjacent rainforest sanctuary, since there are no fences or barriers. For their own safety, they are housed in a nursery building at night. After about four years, they are released to a protected area if the staff are convinced they have the skills to survive in the wild.

Two Sun Bears on a stump
Two Sun Bears on a stump

We also visit the adjacent Sun Bear Conservation Centre. These small, cute bears encounter the same issues as orangutans – encroachment of human settlements on their rainforest habitat, poaching, and locals keeping them as pets. The CEO and Founder of the Centre is Dr. Wong Siew Te, who gives us a personalized tour. We are fortunate to see three of the Sun Bears come out of the bush and literally pose for us on a stump right in front of the viewing platform.

  • Proboscis monkey in a tree on the Brunei River
    Proboscis monkey in a tree on the Brunei River
  • Proboscis monkey in a tree on the Brunei River
    Proboscis monkey in a tree on the Brunei River
  • Proboscis monkey in a tree on the Brunei River
    Proboscis monkey in a tree on the Brunei River
  • Our guide finds fresh dung from Pygmy Elephants
    Our guide finds fresh dung from Pygmy Elephants
  • Stork-billed Kingfisher
    Stork-billed Kingfisher
  • Female Proboscis monkey in a tree
    Female Proboscis monkey in a tree
  • A local fisher on a tributary of the Kinabatangan  River.
    A local fisher on a tributary of the Kinabatangan River.
  • Male Blue-eared Kingfisher
    Male Blue-eared Kingfisher
  • Male Blue-eared Kingfisher
    Male Blue-eared Kingfisher
  • Black and red Broadbill
    Black and red Broadbill
  • Chestnut-breasted Malkoha
    Chestnut-breasted Malkoha
  • Oriental Darter
    Oriental Darter
  • Silver Langur
    Silver Langur
  • Proboscis monkey on a tree limb in profile
    Proboscis monkey on a tree limb in profile
  • Wrinkled Hornbill
    Wrinkled Hornbill
  • Monitor Lizard
    Monitor Lizard
  • A wet Oriental Darter
    A wet Oriental Darter
  • Orangutan bridge across the river
    Orangutan bridge across the river
  • Female Proboscis monkey feeding in the morning
    Female Proboscis monkey feeding in the morning
  • Cattle Egret in breeding plumage
    Cattle Egret in breeding plumage
  • A pair of Hornbills
    A pair of Hornbills
  • Black and red Broadbill near it's nest
    Black and red Broadbill near it’s nest
  • A young Crocodile
    A young Crocodile
  • A crocodile on the Kinabatangan River
    A crocodile on the Kinabatangan River
  • A spotted brown butterfly on some orange blossoms at our rest stop
    A spotted brown butterfly on some orange blossoms at our rest stop
  • Macaque monkey at our rest stop
    Macaque monkey at our rest stop
  • Proboscis Monkey drinking water
    Proboscis Monkey drinking water
  • Male Proboscis Monkey in profile
    Male Proboscis Monkey in profile
  • Male Proboscis Monkey
    Male Proboscis Monkey
  • Proboscis Monkeys feeding
    Proboscis Monkeys feeding
  • Dog-faced Water snake
    Dog-faced Water snake
  • Our group taking photos of the Proboscis Monkeys
    Our group taking photos of the Proboscis Monkeys
  • Orangutan mother and baby
    Orangutan mother and baby
  • Orangutans
    Orangutans
  • Orangutan hanging on the feeding station
    Orangutan hanging on the feeding station
  • Orangutans at the feeding station
    Orangutans at the feeding station
  • Yellow and purple flowers on a bush
    Yellow and purple flowers on a bush
  • The resort retaurant
    The resort retaurant
  • Chalets/rooms and gardens at the resort
    Chalets/rooms and gardens at the resort
  • Male Pigtailed Macaque monkey walking a rope to the Orangutan  feeding station
    Male Pigtailed Macaque monkey walking a rope to the Orangutan feeding station
  • Young Pigtailed Macaque monkey walking a rope to the Orangutan  feeding station
    Young Pigtailed Macaque monkey walking a rope to the Orangutan feeding station
  • A trio of Pigtailed Macaque monkeys waiting at the feeding station
    A trio of Pigtailed Macaque monkeys waiting at the feeding station
  • Young orphaned Orangutans in the nursery area
    Young orphaned Orangutans in the nursery area
  • A poisonous red bug on the walkway
    A poisonous red bug on the walkway
  • A Sun Bear on a stump
    A Sun Bear on a stump
  • Two Sun Bears on a stump
    Two Sun Bears on a stump
  • Two Sun Bears on a stump
    Two Sun Bears on a stump
  • Orangutan on the feeding platform
    Orangutan on the feeding platform
  • Orangutan hanging on the ropes
    Orangutan hanging on the ropes
  • Orangutan reclining on the feeding platform
    Orangutan reclining on the feeding platform
  • Orangutan reclining on the feeding platform
    Orangutan reclining on the feeding platform
  • Orangutan sitting on the feeding platform
    Orangutan sitting on the feeding platform
  • Orangutan in a tree
    Orangutan in a tree
  • Orangutan in a tree
    Orangutan in a tree
  • Mimi, the Orangutan walking along the walkway railing in front of a group of people
    Mimi, the Orangutan walking along the walkway railing in front of a group of people
  • Mimi, the Orangutan in the bush beside the walkway
    Mimi, the Orangutan in the bush beside the walkway
  • Sunset over the rainforest behind the resort
    Sunset over the rainforest behind the resort
  • Orangutan mother and baby
    Orangutan mother and baby
  • Orangutan mother and baby
    Orangutan mother and baby
  • Orangutan mother and baby
    Orangutan mother and baby
  • Orangutan mother and baby
    Orangutan mother and baby
  • Orangutan mother and baby eating a coconut
    Orangutan mother and baby eating a coconut
  • List of Orangutan spottings in the sanctuary
    List of Orangutan spottings in the sanctuary
  • Very big Crocodile
    Very big Crocodile
  • Ferns on the forest floor
    Ferns on the forest floor
  • Our guide Lemon leads us up the hill to the start of the canopy cable walkway
    Our guide Lemon leads us up the hill to the start of the canopy cable walkway
  • Our group crosses the cable walkway
    Our group crosses the cable walkway
  • Looking down on the cable walkway
    Looking down on the cable walkway
  • The view of the rainforest and lake from the cable walkway
    The view of the rainforest and lake from the cable walkway
  • Red flowering bush
    Red flowering bush

Borneo Rain Forest – galleryslideshow

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Kinabatangan Wildlife

April 10, 2018 Tuesday – Sandakan to Kinabatangan, East Sabah, Malaysia

2018 Borneo tour

Kinabatangan, Sandakan & Sepilok area map
Kinabatangan, Sandakan & Sepilok area map

Today we trade our posh Le Meridien hotel in Kota Kinabalu for a wilderness lodge in the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary. We fly to Sandakan in East Sabah this morning, drive along the Kinabatangan River (Sabah’s longest at over 500 kilometres) to Sukau and the Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge

Along the way we pass through many kilometres of oil-palm plantations, and arrive in time for lunch (served buffet-style). When one of the staff takes my bag to my cabin, he is attacked by a troupe of Macaque monkeys and is bitten. Not an impressive start to my stay!

Female Proboscis monkey in a tree
Female Proboscis monkey in a tree

Late this afternoon we take our first river cruise in search of Pygmy Elephants, but our guide Junior only finds fresh elephant dung, since they appear to be on the move. We do see a large group of Proboscis monkeys high in the trees beside the river, Silver Langur monkeys, and the Borneo Civet after dark as we return for a late dinner.

The cabins at the lodge are pretty basic, with no air conditioning, just fans and screens on the windows. There are bugs in the room and especially the bathroom. I started taking my Malarone anti-malarial medicine a couple of days ago in preparation for this segment of our travels, however despite the lodge being located right on the river, I see no mosquitos.

April 11, 2018 Wednesday – Kinabatangan in East Sabah, Malaysia

Black and red Broadbill
Black and red Broadbill

We leave the lodge by boat at 6:30AM for a 2.5 hour trip along the Kinabatangan River. We spot a beautiful Stork-billed Kingfisher soon after we leave the dock. Unlike yesterday evening, today I have my full camera kit with me for the boat trip, I take some good photos of a female Proboscis monkey with a baby in a tree, some Hornbills, a Black and Red Broadbill, a male Blue-eared Kingfisher, a Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, an Oriental Darter, some Silver Langur monkeys, a Wrinkled Hornbill, and a small Monitor Lizard. This is my most productive day for wildlife photography!

Our guide Junior gives a presentation on how he started out as a waiter in a resort, becoming a guide 35 years ago, and had the opportunity to work with David Attenborough on The Living Planet series. The biodiversity on Borneo is very concentrated, lending itself to feature films about the rainforest, such as the National Geographic Great Migration series. Junior tells us he is self-taught as a guide, but he is licensed by the government. Same goes for our other guides, which includes his son.

Stork-billed Kingfisher
Stork-billed Kingfisher

On the afternoon boat trip, we go up a tributary of the main river, where we spot: a Stork-billed Kingfisher (again), a Roller Broadbill (aka Dollar Bird), and an Oriental Darter bird. We see a couple of wildlife bridges built by the government wildlife service to help the Orangutans cross the river channel (since they don’t swim). Our guide tells us the wildlife bridges are mainly used by the monkeys.

I skip the night cruise, since photography is pretty well out of the question, and I really don’t want to be bitten by bugs, pick up any leeches, or attempt to photograph bugs by flashlight.

April 12, 2018 Thursday – Kinabatangan to Sandakan in East Sabah, Malaysia

On our morning boat trip, we see: Proboscis monkeys feeding (including a male), a Cattle Egret in breeding plumage, a pair of Hornbills, a male Black and Red Broadbill guarding its nest, and a young Crocodile on the muddy shore.

Staff waving goodbye to us from the Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge
Staff waving goodbye to us from the Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge

After lunch, it is time to leave the lodge by taking a 2.5 hour boat trip down the river to the jetty at Sandakan. This turns out to be an endurance contest, despite having a rest stop half way at Abai Jungle Restaurant and Lodge, a lodge on the lower river run by the same company (S I Tours) as where we were staying. The boats are going about 40 knots and when we are in exposed sea water in the Sulu Sea, the ride is very rough and noisy. I wear my noise-cancelling earbuds to reduce my stress level.

Our luggage being wheeled from the jetty where we landed through the stilt village to our awaiting bus in Sandakan
Our luggage being wheeled from the jetty where we landed through the stilt village to our awaiting bus

Once we arrive at the jetty in Sandakan, our bags are taken by hand carts to the bus waiting for us, and we are driven a short distance to the only deluxe hotel to be found in Sandakan, the Four Points by Sheraton. It has an infinity pool, gym, 2-level lobby with a piano, and is over 20 stories high. It’s quite pretentious, however I’m happy to have an American-style room with air conditioning, hot water and comfy bed after the last few nights spent in the river lodge!