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Shilthorn & Swiss Alps

September 16, 2014 – Tuesday – Lauterbrunnen Valley and the Alps, Switzerland

Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour

Technically, today is a free day in Switzerland, however Jennifer has organized a wonderful activity for anyone who wants to go: a gondola ride up to the peak, a walk along a ridgeline pathway from Mürren to Grutshalp, and a gondola ride down to the town of Lauterbrunnen. Then everyone is on their own to take the poste bus back to Stechelberg and our hotel (the bus terminus).

View of the Lauterbrunnen valley from the Stechelberg-Gimmelwald gondola
View of the Lauterbrunnen valley from the Stechelberg-Gimmelwald gondola

The mountains surrounding the Lauterbrunnen Valley are so steep, the mountain peaks are not visible from the valley floor. Since so many of us are signed up for this activity today, Sylvain drives us the short distance to the gondola station near Stechelberg, and Jennifer gets a group rate of 57 CF (CD$70) for the gondola rides. The first of four gondolas takes us from the valley floor, over the ridgeline to Gimmelwald, a small mountain community. The second gondola takes us to Mürren, a bigger mountain community. The third gondola takes us a long way up the mountain to Birg, which has a few houses, but is essentially a transfer station to the last gondola, which takes us almost straight up to the Shilthorn peak.

The Shilthorn is famous for being the location where some scenes of James Bond movies were shot, where James skis down a steep snowy slope being chased by the bad guys, and takes a luge down the mountain. The weather is totally clear when we arrive, and we have a good hour before some clouds come in and partially obscure the view. At this point, I go inside and have a hot chocolate in the revolving restaurant and post some selfie photos to my facebook page. There is free Wi-fi and good cellular coverage on the peak as well as at each gondola station thanks to Swiss efficiency!

We regroup in Mürren, and then hike along a ridge line pathway to Grutshalp. The grade on the pathway is easy, but it is a two hour hike to the gondola station. The views along the way are spectacular: there seem to be new views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peaks at every turn in the path.

Contented Swiss cows at Winteregg on the trail between Mürren and Grutschalp
Contented Swiss cows at Winteregg on the trail between Mürren and Grutschalp

The famous contented Swiss cows with the bells around their necks are roaming the steep alpine meadows, and we stop for yogurt and other dairy snacks along the way. There is also a small train running between Mürren and Grutshalp. Unlike the packed gondolas to Shilthorn, the ride down to the town of Lauterbrunnen isn’t crowded. Some of the group stay in town to have lunch or shop, but I am tired, so I take the poste bus back to the hotel. Even the bus offers free Wi-fi while aboard!

Today is without a doubt one of the highlights of the tour for me!

Shilthorn
30 photos, 1 video

After we return from our adventures in the Alps, we have dinner at the hotel. I have Weisswurst sausage and the Swiss version of fried potatoes, but don’t have any wine or beer since it is so expensive. I guess we were spoiled by the low prices for food and beverages in Italy. Even a coffee or cappuccino in our hotel is 5 CF (CD$6)!

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Cinque Terre to Lauterbrunnen Valley

September 15, 2014 – Monday – Cinque Terre, Italy to Lauterbrunnen Valley, Switzerland

Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour

Sustenpass turnoff
Sustenpass turnoff

After departing Monterosso, Cinque Terre, we drive past Genoa and Milan and cross the border into Switzerland at Lugano. There are lots of winding roads, tunnels, and mountain passes along the way. We take the Gotthard Tunnel, the third longest tunnel in the world, and cross over the Sustenpass, where we have a quick rest stop. After descending a steep, winding road, we are finally in the valley at Interlaken where we make a short stop mainly so everyone can withdraw some Swiss Francs (CF) from the ATMs and banks. One Canadian Dollar equals 0.85 CF, or about CD$1.20 to buy a Swiss Franc.

Otto demonstrating fondue
Otto demonstrating fondue

We drive along the Lauterbrunnen Valley to the town of Stechelberg, and then further to the end of the road to our hotel, Hotel Stechelberg. I draw a single room with a sink in it. The toilet and shower are in the hall (one for men and one for women) and shared by 6 others. So this is the most basic accommodation on the tour. I would judge it to be equivalent to a hostel. There is a group dinner provided at the hotel for both nights, since the nearest restaurant is some distance away. Otto, the owner (and chef) of the hotel starts us off this evening with a demonstration of how to make authentic Swiss cheese fondue, and then we follow that up with dinner.

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Venice

September 7, 2014 – Sunday – Austria to Venice, Italy

Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days tour

After parking in the Tronchetto parking area of Venice, we get our bags off the bus and take the Vaporetto (water bus) to the Academia area. Jennifer previously warned us that an historical regatta was happening along the Grand Canal, which means some bridges and portions of the canal are closed to traffic. We schlepp our bags through the crowds, but when we reach the Academia Bridge, it is jammed solid with a crowd and is complete chaos. At this point we can no longer roll our bags as we squeeze through the crowds. It takes us about 20 minutes to carefully cross to the other side and regroup before continuing the rather stressful walk to our hotel.

Canal intersection with patios and homes above in Venice
Canal intersection with patios and homes above

The Hotel Serenissima is located just four blocks from St. Marks Square, and it’s not much further to the Rialto Bridge area. My room is the tiniest hotel room I have ever stayed in, however it has a bathroom and a single bed, and is comfortable and quiet, since it faces the inner courtyard instead of the street.

We don’t have much time, but I manage to get cleaned up before we go out for a group dinner at Trattoria alla Madonna. The food and service is very good. The dinner includes salad, main course, wine, dessert, and some entertainment from a trio that wandered in from the street. They make out like bandits from all the tips our group give them!

Gondola ride on the Grand Canal at night in Venice
Gondola ride on the Grand Canal at night in Venice

Another highlight of the tour is a night time gondola ride through the canals, complete with a singer and accordion player! Our guide Jennifer arranges this extra (reasonable) cost activity for those of us who want to go, so we share four gondolas. It is great to experience this with the group. It is a beautiful night, the Moon is full over the Grand Canal, and the city is alive with people as we glide by listening to our musicians. Jennifer even serves us Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) before we start the gondola ride!

September 8, 2014 – Monday – Venice

After breakfast at the hotel this morning, we go on an early morning guided walk with a local guide. We see Marco Polo family’s square, then go to the Venice Hospital area, where we have a break. The hospital looks like a church to me. The walk continues wandering through Venice, and we eventually come to a little shop on a canal, which sells Venetian masks. Our guide takes the whole group inside to see how the Moroccan owner makes the masks. I’m not interested, although the rest of the group seem to enjoy it.

Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals in St. Marks Cathedral
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals in St. Marks Cathedral

Our last stop on the tour is the famous St. Marks Cathedral on St. Marks Square (Piazza San Marco), where our guides leave us. Timing is important, since at 11:30AM, the lights illuminating the ceiling inside the church are turned on. This is new for the cathedral and well worth planning for, since the ceiling comes alive with the extra light, and photography of the ceiling detail is much more rewarding. I decide to pay extra to see the famous golden horses, which are upstairs in the museum part of the church. This turns out very well, since I also have access to the balcony over the main entrance, which gives an unobstructed view of the flooded St. Marks Square, the Doges Palace, the intricate St. Mark’s Clocktower, and the nearby islands and canals. I skip touring the Doges Palace, since I saw it last time I was here in 2006.

I get my shoes soaked as I try to dodge the water in the square on my way back to the hotel. After a nap in my room, I go out walking around the Rialto Bridge and the Grand Canal, take some photos, and just enjoy my free time in Venice. I join a couple in the tour group for dinner at a nice outdoor restaurant with a great view of a canal near the Rialto Bridge. Now that the cruise ship passengers have left Venice, the place is civilized again!

September 9, 2014 – Tuesday – Venice to Florence

We don’t encounter any problems taking the Vaporetto back to the Tronchetto parking area of Venice this morning, since the Regatta is over – things are back to normal.

Venice
64 photos
Fincantieri ship building facility
Fincantieri ship building facility
Frecciarsento high speed train in the rail yard at Mestre
Frecciarsento high speed train in the rail yard at Mestre
Five cruise ships docked
Five cruise ships docked
Tronchetto people mover train bridge
Tronchetto people mover train bridge
Tronchetto people mover train station
Tronchetto people mover train station
The causeway and the Tronchetto
The causeway and the Tronchetto
Tronchetto vaporetto terminal
Tronchetto vaporetto terminal
Crowds on the Academia bridge waiting for the regatta on the Grand Canal
Crowds on the Academia bridge waiting for the regatta on the Grand Canal
Group having dinner
Group having dinner
Musical trio entertaining the group after dinner
Musical trio entertaining the group after dinner
Venetian canal at night and an almost Full Moon
Venetian canal at night and an almost Full Moon
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Jennifer opening Prosecco to serve us before our Gondola ride
Our gondolas await us
Our gondolas await us
Our tour group aboard one gondola
Our tour group aboard one gondola
Jim and Sandy celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary in Venice
Jim and Sandy celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary in Venice
Gondolas on a canal at night
Gondolas on a canal at night
Singer and accordian player on our gondola
Singer and accordian player on our gondola
Gondoliier and gondola on a canal at night
Gondoliier and gondola on a canal at night
Gondolas passing on a canal at night
Gondolas passing on a canal at night
Our group in a gondola passing under a bridge on a canal at night
Our group in a gondola passing under a bridge on a canal at night
Building's balcony and ornate room fscing the Grand Canal lit up at night
Building’s balcony and ornate room fscing the Grand Canal lit up at night
Jim and Sandy on thh Grande Canal with our gondolier
Jim and Sandy on thh Grande Canal with our gondolier
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our group in gondolas on the Grand Canal at night with the Full Moon
Our singer serenades us on the Grand Canal
Our singer serenades us on the Grand Canal
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
The Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal at night
Our singer and accordian player serenade us on a small canal
Our singer and accordian player serenade us on a small canal
A bridge over a canal with the Full Moon behind
A bridge over a canal with the Full Moon behind
Freight boats in front of the Rialto Bridge
Freight boats in front of the Rialto Bridge
Marzipan confections in a shop window
Marzipan confections in a shop window
Freight boat in a canal
Freight boat in a canal
Mask-making presentation
Mask-making presentation
Gondola with ornate seats
Gondola with ornate seats
Wig and dress in the Atelier Marega mask shop window
Wig and dress in the Atelier Marega mask shop window
Canal intersection with patios and homes above
Canal intersection with patios and homes above
Brass door knocker
Brass door knocker
Masks hanging from a shop ceiling
Masks hanging from a shop ceiling
Bridge of Sighs behind the Doge's Palace
Bridge of Sighs behind the Doge’s Palace
Ornate roofline of the cathedral
Ornate roofline of the cathedral
Crowds in St. Mark's Square avoiding the flooding
Crowds in St. Mark’s Square avoiding the flooding
St Mark's Campanile tower
St Mark’s Campanile tower
The columns of San Marco and San Todaro and the crowds in front of the Doge's Palace
The columns of San Marco and San Todaro and the crowds in front of the Doge’s Palace
Torre dell'Orologio clock tower
Torre dell’Orologio clock tower
Ornate facade of the cathedral
Ornate facade of the cathedral
Crowds in St. Mark's Square avoiding the flooding
Crowds in St. Mark’s Square avoiding the flooding
The front balcony above the cathedral entrance
The front balcony above the cathedral entrance
Stairway to the museum
Stairway to the museum
The horses of St. Mark's Cathedral
The horses of St. Mark’s Cathedral
The gold decorated sanctuary from the balcony
The gold decorated sanctuary from the balcony
Gold leaf ceiling decorations
Gold leaf ceiling decorations
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated ceiling
Gold decorated ceiling
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Candelabra in the sanctuary
Candelabra in the sanctuary
Gold decorated screen
Gold decorated screen
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated wall and ceiling murals
Gold decorated ceiling murals
Gold decorated ceiling murals
San Marco Square flooded by a Full Moon tide
San Marco Square flooded by a Full Moon tide
People dining beside the Grand Canal near the Rialto Bridge
People dining beside the Grand Canal near the Rialto Bridge
San Giacomo di Rialto and its large 15th century clock above the entrance
San Giacomo di Rialto and its large 15th century clock above the entrance
Masks in a shop window
Masks in a shop window