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Bishop Museum – Honolulu

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 17, 2023 – Day 1 in Honolulu – Bishop Museum

After having breakfast in the Main Dining Room aboard the ship, I take a taxi to the Bishop Museum. I saw this museum back in the 1980s, so it is time to see this repository of Hawaiian natural and cultural history again. There are some exquisite artifacts and artwork, but it is mostly the same as before.

Pacific Hall features Polynesian culture as it is found across huge regions of the Pacific Ocean. I’m pleased to see the Lapita People are featured as the origins of more recent oceanic people. The Lapitas migrated across the South Pacific from Taiwan and East Asia during the Neolithic era (1600 to 500 BCE). All the resulting Melanesian, Micronesian and Polynesian cultures from this migration are featured in displays in this hall, as well as ocean-going sailing canoes.

Hawaiian Hall is a beautiful 3-level exhibit hall with big models in the centre and display cases on the side walls. See banner image above.

A big Tlingit House Post (totem pole) stands in the foyer between the two main exhibit halls, which I thought was a bit odd until I read the inscription: “This Tlingit House Post is a gift from the Sealaska Corp to the Polynesian Voyaging Society and the Hawaiian people to commemorate the strong ties of friendship generated by the Hawai’iloa voyaging canoe and her crew.”

There is also a Picture Gallery between the two main exhibit halls, which features paintings, photos and household artifacts from the Hawaiian royalty. They also have a good collection of stereograms and a couple of working viewers, which brings back memories to me of using a View-Master to look at stereoscopic images of cartoon characters and scenery during my childhood

I take a quick wander through the Science Adventure Center, which is mainly setup for kids with lasers, flashing lights, and interactive displays. There is a cleverly designed Make A Telescope display, which appeals to me as an amateur astronomer. The optics are configurable, so when played with, the effect of moving optic elements or using different ones becomes apparent.

After a couple of hours, I’m ready to return to the ship, so call another taxi. The museum is quite a distance from downtown, costing about US$25 each way. As always, it’s great to return to the ship. I have some lunch and relax for the afternoon.

I go to the 6PM show of Drums of Polynesia: Featuring Kauvaka a performance of a local entertainment troupe that looked promising, however I end up walking out after 10 minutes since the talent is amateurish, and not even close to portraying authentic Polynesian or Hawaiian culture.

I give my two room stewards envelopes with US$ as an early tip this evening, so if they get some time off tomorrow, perhaps they can do some shopping in Honolulu.

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Kailua-Kona, Big Island of Hawai’i

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 16, 2023 – a day in Kailua and the Kona Coast on the Big Island of Hawai’i, USA

I am up at 7AM and have my usual light breakfast in the Grand Dutch Cafe: fruit parfait, blueberry muffin and a cappuccino. The ship anchors in the bay, drops some tenders into the water, and is soon ready to transfer passengers to shore after the ship is cleared by the port authorities.

I wait until just after 9AM to go down to Deck 1, where we are immediately loaded onto a tender. I have VIP service with my 4-Star Mariner status, so I don’t have to get a tender ticket or wait around to be called. Once I’m ashore, I walk the short distance to the Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel and wait in the lobby for my friend to pick me up. She is running late, so I hang out in the hotel to stay out of the heat and away from the noise. There are many artifacts on display in the hotel, including the impressive Mahoe, Kai Opua Canoe Club’s 40-foot koa canoe. The Ironman competitors are also leaving the hotel this Monday morning after competing over the weekend, so the people watching is great.

My friend arrives, and we are off to Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge). It is great to retreat from the crazy tourist strip, driving through the Captain Cook coffee farms to soak in the good mana at Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau, which is probably my favourite place in the world. In past visits, when I stayed at B&Bs in the Captain Cook area of the Big Island, I would come down here to just hang out for hours. There is a Hawaiian man weaving baskets in the Canoe Hālau A-frame, and there is a beautifully made wooden Kōnane Papamū under the palms for playing kōnane (Hawaiian checkers). A Green Sea turtle (honu) blesses us as it swims in Keonae’ele Cove just before we leave. The bonus today is that admission is waived!

We stop at a mall at Keauhou to have some fish tacos at Tropics Taphouse, which is a sports bar in the mall. My friend drops me off at the hotel, and I walk back to the tender dock, where I board the next tender with no waiting. I’m back in my cool stateroom by 3PM, freshen up and then take my notebook down to the Grand Dutch Cafe to have a cappuccino and big chocolate chip cookie, which revives me nicely.

I watch the crew hoist the tender boats aboard from the Promenade Deck, and then return to my stateroom to dress for dinner in the main dining room. I have corn and crab fritters to start, spaghetti aioli entree, and a banana crisp for dessert. I don’t go for my usual martini nightcap this evening and skip the magician show, preferring to work on my photos and journal stay in my stateroom.

Starting tomorrow, we will be docked in Honolulu for two days with an overnight at the dock. I go online to buy a ticket to the Bishop Museum for tomorrow, since it was back in the 1980s when I last saw the museum exhibits.

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Hilo, Big Island of Hawai’i

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 15, 2023 – a day in Hilo on the Big Island of Hawai’i, USA

I’m up at 6:30AM to enjoy the beautiful approach to Hilo harbour, with Maunakea lit by the morning sunlight and the observatories clearly visible on top. My stateroom balcony gives me a great view of the shoreline as the ship sails into Hilo Bay and docks at 10AM. I’m ready to go, so leave the ship by 10:30AM – my destination is Reeds Bay, Banyan Drive, Coconut Island and Queen Lili’uokalani Gardens.

Map of my walk along Hilo Bay from Koningsdam - Apple Fitness iOS app.
Map of my walk along Hilo Bay from Koningsdam – Apple Fitness iOS app.

It’s already hot, and it takes 20 minutes to walk along Kalaniana’ole Street to my first stop, Kuhio Kalaniana’ole Park. I need to cool off a bit before walking further to Reeds Bay, walk along Banyan Drive and find a mini-market where I buy a chilled Coca-cola. This revives me nicely as I continue my walk along Banyan Drive to Coconut Island. It is Sunday, so lots of local families are enjoying playing in the shallow water, having picnics, and just hanging out in the shade.

I spot a Common Myna and some Saffron Finches foraging in the grass, and a Pacific Golden Plover perched on a stone pagoda in a pond.

I continue to wander through the beautiful Queen Lili’uokalani Gardens and then walk back to the ship and the welcome air conditioning. My Apple Watch tells me I’ve covered 6.4 kms (4 mi) and taken about 10,000 steps, so it was quite the workout for me today in the tropical heat! Although I walk every day around the Promenade Deck while we’re at sea, land walks provide more meaningful exercise.

A Cannonball Impossible burger with fries and a Heineken beer for lunch after my walk

It’s nice to sit in the shade aboard ship and enjoy my late lunch of a Cannonball Impossible burger with fries and a Heineken beer.

I make use of my Jethro Mobile USA mobile plan to call my friend as the ship is leaving port, to confirm our rendezvous for tomorrow’s port call in Kailua-Kona on the other side of the Big Island. Later in the Main Dining Room, my choices for dinner: Kaua’i Poke appetizer, Mahi mahi for main course (excellent sauce and moist fish), and Cherry crisp for dessert. I have a Trader Vic’s Mai Tai with dinner – a nice drink, but too sweet for me.

I have my usual Tanqueray 10 Gin Martini before the Crow’s Nest Lounge closes at 9PM. My favourite server knows me well, so my nightcap is always made just how I like it. It’s lovely to be spoiled!

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Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 14, 2023 – a day in Nawiliwili, Kaua’i, Hawai’i, USA

Nawiliwili is the first port of call for Koningsdam, spending 5 days sailing across the North Pacific Ocean to Hawai’i. The ship is delayed a bit by another ship leaving the harbour this morning, but once we are tied up passengers are soon ashore and off on their excursions, despite some having to be cancelled due to our later arrival. I have nothing planned, so I have a leisurely breakfast aboard ship at the Grand Dutch Cafe: muffin, fruit parfait, cappuccino.

Joe wearing his new Aloha shirt featuring Frangipangi flowers on a dark red background.
Joe wearing his new Aloha shirt featuring Frangipangi flowers on a dark red background.

I then go ashore, walking 10 minutes to the two resorts and shops on the nearby shores of Nawiliwili Bay. I find a shop selling 100% cotton Aloha shirts, so I buy a nice-looking one with Frangipani flowers on a deep red background. I think it looks quite classy, and I think it will match the Ultra Red on my new Tesla Model S! After taking a few photos along the beautiful beach, I walk back to the ship, and have a Tribeca pizza and Heineken beer for lunch outside.

Le Boreal, a Ponant premium cruise ship docks in the harbour midday. It is quite small with a 264 passenger capacity, and a very sleek design.

After our departure from Nawiliwili Harbour around 4PM there is a spectacular sunset as the ship sails overnight to dock in Hilo on the Big Island of Hawai’i tomorrow. I have dinner in the Main Dining Room, but order a light entree, since the pizza at lunch filled me up.

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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 5 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 13, 2023 – My Birthday at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

I have poached eggs on avocado toast for breakfast in the Main Dining room this morning. I join two couples from Parksville and Ottawa. The men start complaining about gas prices, so I drop the bombshell that I haven’t bought gas since 2014. They then commence to diss electric vehicles, but I take the high road and tell them about how much fun EVs are to drive, great for road trips, how quiet and reliable they are, and point out the low operating cost.

A chocolate cupcake arrives in my stateroom with best wishes from the Captain on my birthday (see banner above). Ovation of the Seas is visible on the horizon to the south of us at 11AM heading to Honolulu, so I take a photo using my long telephoto lens from my balcony.

Ovation of the Seas is on the horizon beside our ship

I have my first swim in the Sea View pool this morning, since it has warmed up nicely as we approach Hawai’i. It is very crowded on the stern deck on this lovely sunny day, but I find a table and chair in the shade. I have a Cannonball burger made with an Impossible patty, fries and a Heineken beer, which hits the spot for my lunch.

A busy Sea View pool on the first warm day of the cruise

Captain’s Noon report

  • 302 nmi to go before we arrive in Nawiliwili on the island of Kaua’i
  • 2m swells

I have a lazy afternoon in my stateroom and enjoying my balcony, and then go down to the Dutch Cafe later for a cappuccino. I stay to browse the web and work on my journal and photos with my Macbook Pro. Having a Starlink connection has greatly improved the Internet experience aboard ship! There are some Red-footed Booby swooping beside the ship’s bow late this afternoon. They are magnificent birds that feed on the small fish on the ocean surface by swooping down into dives.

Red-footed Booby swooping beside the ship's bow

I thoroughly enjoy my birthday dinner at my favourite specialty restaurant the Tamarind, which is an Asian fusion restaurant that also has a sushi bar and chef. I stick to the main menu this evening and have a couple of martinis to celebrate my 71st birthday:

  • Chinese Five Spice Baby Back Ribs
  • Thai Basil Szechuan Shrimp with Dungeness Crab Fried rice
  • 3 Sorbets: lemon-basil, yuzu, lychee
Chinese Five Spice Baby Back Ribs

After dinner, I go to the Main Stage where pianist Ryan Ahern performs blues, Broadway, movie themes, and Liberace. He has an amazing repertoire, and is based in Las Vegas with his band when he’s not touring solo. When I return to my stateroom, there are more Happy Birthday wishes from the captain and three towel art from my room stewards waiting for me to discover on my bed. What a lovely day at sea!

Happy Birthday wishes from the captain and 3 towel art from my room stewards
Happy Birthday wishes from the captain and 3 towel art from my room stewards
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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 4 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 12, 2023 – Day 4 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

I have Lox and bagel with a passion fruit parfait for breakfast in the Main Dining room this morning.

Bagel, lox and creme cheese for breakfast

EXC Talk: Aloha Baby – The True Story of Iconic Hawaiian Symbols

  • History of the ukulele – 3 Portuguese immigrants made furniture and musical instruments, King David Kalākaua the Merrie Monarch popularized the instrument.
  • The Aloha Shirt – not a Hawaiian shirt.
Joe in a tie and jacket for Dressy Night. Flowers in the Ocean Bar aboard Koningsdam.
Joe in a tie and jacket for Dressy Night. Flowers in the Ocean Bar aboard Koningsdam.

Noon Captain’s Report

  • We have sailed 1,157 miles from Astoria, with 770 miles to go for arrival in Kauai
  • Wind is 20 kts from the North, Force 5, 8′ swells
  • Our arrival in Nawiliwili will be delayed due to a cruise ship already being docked. New estimated arrival is 8:30AM, depending on when the other ship departs and releases the pilot.

It is Dressy night, so I put on a tie and jacket and go to the Main Dining Room for dinner. I then catch the The Runaround Kids – Prom Dance music in Main Stage.

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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 3 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 11, 2023 – Day 3 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

Noon Captain’s Report

  • Wind currently 15kts SW force 4 with 2m swells (gentle)
  • Wind was 20kts overnight 1.5m swells

Five wines with cheese, fruit and bread

James Suckling's Regional Wine Tasting in the Main Dining room with a Sommelier.
Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean
2023-10-11, 1:57:05 PM
James Suckling’s Regional Wine Tasting in the Main Dining room with a Sommelier. Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean 2023-10-11, 1:57:05 PM

I attend a complimentary Mariners’ James Suckling’s Regional Wine Tasting at 2PM in the Main Dining Room. The sommelier leads us through tasting a sparkling, two whites and two reds, accompanied with some cheese, fruit, bread and chutney. Since I’m not much of a wine drinker, it’s nice that my 4-star Mariner status with Holland America gives me these opportunities to try something different.

I skip lunch today in anticipation of my reservation for dinner in Canaletto, since I want to fully appreciate their amazing Osso Buco (Braised cross-cut veal shanks, mascarpone, saffron arborio risotto, carrots). I start with Burrata, a lovely fresh-tasting salad featuring the cheese with plum tomatoes, pistachio-garlic gremolata and extra virgin olive oil (see above banner image). The Osso Buco is fork tender and oh so richly flavoured! I finish with Affogato for dessert (malaga gelato, espresso, lemon zest). A glass of Chianti goes well with the veal.

Osso Buco – amazing flavour and fork tender!

Braised cross-cut veal shanks, mascarpone, saffron arborio risotto, roasted carrots. My entree for dinner in the Canaletto restaurant.
Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean
2023-10-11, 6:03:47 PM
Braised cross-cut veal shanks, mascarpone, saffron arborio risotto, roasted carrots. My entree for dinner in the Canaletto restaurant. Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean 2023-10-11, 6:03:47 PM
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Astoria to Kaua’i – Day 2 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 10, 2023 – Day 2 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

The ship was pitching a lot again last night, so there were strange noises, however I got to sleep. The ship’s clocks turned back an hour last night, so we have an extra hour of sleep. It looks like it will take us another day to sail clear of the huge storm north of us. It continues to cause the ship to pitch, so the outside decks are closed.

9am Captain’s Report: A large low pressure area is 600 miles to the north of us, with winds of 40 kts and 15’ swells.

Noon Captain’s Report: NW winds at 35kts – Force 8 with 15′ swells, reducing to 15kts by this evening.

Just before lunch, our Cruise Director Stephanie takes the World Stage to deliver an EXC Talk: The Kingdom of Hawai’i – Native Hawaiian Spirit. She confesses to being seasick from the ship’s motion, but does a great job of delivering the presentation. Continuing on with the cultural theme, a Hawaiian Brunch is served in the Main Dining Room today. I have the Hawaiian Plate – teriyaki pork and chicken, rice, macaroni salad. My table mates are a couple from Oliver, formerly from White Rock, and a couple from Pennsylvania, all well-travelled who offer interesting conversation.

Aloha Sunset Music Hour in the Crow’s Nest

There is Hula at the Aloha Sunset Music Hour in the Crow’s Nest at 6PM, performed by our three Hawaiian ambassadors: Jay, Jamie and Keoni. After having a prime rib dinner in the Main Dining room this evening, I go to Main Stage to enjoy a performance by Ryan Ahern, a talented pianist from Las Vegas.

Ryan Ahern, a pianist from Las Vegas
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Astoria to Kauai – Day 1 at sea

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Oct 9, 2023 – Day 1 at sea – Astoria, Oregon to Nawiliwili, Kaua’i

We sail into very windy conditions with high seas after the ship leaves Astoria. The ship is slamming into big waves and the wind is howling through the gaps in my balcony door seals as I try to sleep. I’m awake until conditions lessen some time after 1:30AM.

Huge low pressure region west of us, so the ship's course to Hawai'i is skirting the worst of it.
Huge low pressure region west of us, so the ship’s course to Hawai’i is skirting the worst of it.

Captain’s Noon Report – NW wind 20 kts, increasing slightly this evening to 25 kts with 6-8 foot swells. Ship’s time sets back one hour this evening.

Conditions at 9:12PM

  • 35 mph wind from SSW
  • Ship proceeding at 17.5 knots on SW heading 227

We have a huge storm west of us, and it looks like it will take us another day or two to sail clear of it. Outside decks are closed and the ship is lurching quite a bit.

Traditional Canadian Thanksgiving Turkey dinner served in the Main Dining Room

Canadian Thanksgiving is celebrated this evening by the large number of Canadians aboard the ship. It is Dressy Night so I put on a dress shirt, tie and jacket and go to the Main Dining Room to have a lovely turkey dinner with my fellow Canadians.

The Birth of Rock and Roll- featuring- The Runaround Kids

World Stage. The RKs are a multi awardwinning vintage band who are here to play the best of 1950’s and 1960’s rock and roll. Join them in the theatre for their spectacular show which charts the greatest music ever written. 
Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean
2023-10-09, 8:22:22 PM
World Stage. The RKs are a multi awardwinning vintage band who are here to play the best of 1950’s and 1960’s rock and roll. Join them in the theatre for their spectacular show which charts the greatest music ever written. Aboard Koningsdam, , , North Pacific Ocean 2023-10-09, 8:22:22 PM

The Birth of Rock and Roll – featuring The Runaround Kids give an energetic performance this evening on The World Stage.

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Astoria

2023 Vancouver-Hawai’i Cruise

Sunday, October 8, 2023 – Astoria, Oregon, USA

Our approach to the Columbia River mouth was in the morning hours, with the river pilot boarding the ship from a helicopter on the stern – Deck 9 Lido. Passengers were advised to stay clear until the pilot was aboard and the crew had placed all deck furniture back in place. I’m out on deck with my camera as the ship passes Cape Disappointment at about 10:20AM. We pass Fort Stevens as we sail up the Columbia River to dock at Astoria at Noon under clear and sunny skies and lovely 18ºC temperatures.

Since Astoria is a hilly city, I had booked the Astoria Scenic Waterfront Biking excursion, but due to the ship arriving late, that excursion is cancelled, so I go to the excursion desk and book the Historic Astoria excursion. After our bus drives under the imposing Astoria-Megler Bridge and through the city, our first stop is the Columbia River Maritime Museum on the river shore. This modest museum offers both inside displays about local maritime history and the Columbia lightship was docked nearby, beside the still active USCGC Steadfast. Driving to the second stop, the Astoria Column, gives us drive-by glimpses of the historic neighbourhoods that would otherwise be difficult to get to in this hilly city. The 360-degree views from the top of the column are worth the claustrophobic climb up the circular staircase!

Westward panoramic view from the top of the Astoria Column

Astoria, OR, USA
2023-10-08, 3:06:59 PM
Astoria, OR, USA 2023-10-08, 3:06:59 PM

Final stop is Fort Clatsop at the Lewis & Clark National Historic Park where a park ranger does a good job of setting the historical context for this strategically important outpost for the still-forming country – the United States of America. Fort Clatsop was a winter encampment for the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1805-06.

After returning to the ship in the late afternoon, I go for an early dinner to the Canaletto Italian premium restaurant while the ship is still docked. I have a table with a nice view across the river as I start with fresh, warm artisan bread with green olives, olive oil and balsamic vinegar, green and red pesto, along with a glass of Pinot Grigio white wine. Next is a delicious Canaletto salad – greens, walnuts, gorgonzola, beets, with balsamic dressing. My main course is an exceptionally good Escalope of Fresh Cod with a small side of fresh-made pasta topped with parmesan. The cod melts in my mouth! The premium charge for Canaletto is US$25 pp, however since I’m a 4-star Mariner I get 50% off, so with the $4.50 service charge, my cost for this very enjoyable meal is US$17.