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El Silencio Cloud Forest

Feb 14, 2008 – Thursday – La Fortuna to San Jose, Costa Rica

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Cloud forest canopy & clouds

We leave the Tabacón resort this morning, returning from La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano to San Jose and the Central Valley. First stop is El Silencio de Los Angeles Cloud Forest. This is the first Cloud Forest I have experienced up close, and it is fascinating. We see lots of fauna and flora, including several varieties of hummingbirds, army and leaf-cutter ants, orchids and other amazing flowering plants. The cloud forest lives up to its name as the clouds silently drift through the forest canopy, nourishing all the life below. We have a very nice lunch at the adjoining Villa Blanca restaurant, and I admire the folklorique mural on the wall depicting historic industry in Costa Rica.

Historical scene on a tile mural in the Villa Blanca lobby

We get back on the bus for the drive back to San Jose, however there is the inevitable shopping stop at Sarchi. Thank goodness it is only a half hour this time before we are underway again. I really find the shopping part of these tours to be boring and a waste of my time. We run into rush hour traffic as we approach San Jose, which makes us late for our Farewell dinner. We all rush through our Courtyard Marriott hotel check-in, and manage to get to the restaurant before they cancel our reservation. This is a different restaurant than last week. The dinner is very nice – no band playing this time, a few short speeches are made, and I get to talk with some of my fellow Canadians in the group.

Rush hour traffic on the highway into San Jose

I have to be the first to leave the restaurant, since my flight tomorrow leaves at 7:45am. I am told my airport transfer is arranged for 5am, so that means I have to get up at 4am – a killer hour. Also, due to a scheduling mistake by Continental Airlines, I now have to overnight in Seattle-Tacoma, so I won’t be returning home to Victoria, Canada until Saturday instead of Friday evening. Back to the reality of a more crowded, hectic pace, with travel stress and decisions to be made, after a sublime two weeks in rural Costa Rica.

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Arenal Volcano

Feb 13, 2008 – Wednesday – Arenal Volcano

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

I have a nice breakfast of waffles with fruit and chocolate sauce, coffee & fresh fruit juice at 5:30AM. Today is obviously starting off early, since we go on a hike to see a volcanic flow on Arenal Volcano. A woman in our group sits on an unstable rock and rolls to the ground, resulting in some cuts and bruises. Otherwise, everyone coped well with the sometimes rough terrain. There is some rain at the start of our hike, and it is cloudy to clear the rest of our time on the mountain shrouded in cloud, which is not unusual for Arenal. The last time I was here 10 years ago, Arenal was in cloud as well. We watch the volcano spit hot boulders for awhile and then return to the bus.

Lake Arenal

The Arenal Volcano Observatory is our next stop – a sublime place which has a nice restaurant overlooking the volcano, a resort, Lake Arenal, and the observatory operated by the Smithsonian Institute. We have a leisurely lunch, observe the volcano from the deck, and have fun watching the tropical birds feeding on some fruit left out for them at a feeding station. There is also a Coatimundi foraging in the gardens. From this vantage point I take better photos of the mountain than from our hike earlier in the day. Steven O’Meara shares a bit of history about Arenal, and then we get back on the bus and return to Tabacón.

Hot lava rocks rolling down the slope

The rest of the afternoon is free, so I go to the hot springs and spa and soak in the hot pools. Some of them are very hot (41.5°C) and others are as cool as 25°C. I find a hot pool away from the crowds and alternate between hot and cool for about an hour. Our hotel room booking includes admission to the hot springs, so many of my group are also taking advantage of the facility. Normal admission is $60/person for a day pass. There is a free shuttle between the hotel and the hot springs – they are located about a block apart.

Hot pools

We enjoy a sumptuous dinner at Arenal Kioro Hotel, a resort located toward La Fortuna not far from Tabacón. This two year old resort is situated on the mountain and has wonderful views of the area. The whole complex is quite spectacular. After dinner, we drive back to Arenal and park along an access road, trying to spot the hot lava rocks as they tumble down the mountain, but it is so cloudy we only spot a couple before giving up to return to Tabacón.

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Sarapiqui River Rafting

Feb 12, 2008 – Tuesday – Sueño Azul Hotel to the Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort near Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

As I sit on the deck this morning before breakfast, I see a Kingfisher dive for his breakfast, and the Snowy Egret is wading in the pond, along with many other birds in the trees. It has rained off and on more or less continuously since we arrived at the Sueño Azul Hotel. Despite being quite a long way from the Caribbean coast, this area is only about 60 metres about sea level, so it is very wet and tropical here.

After check-out, we drive the short distance to the Hacienda Pozo Azul Butterfly Garden in La Virgen, so I get a second chance to see the butterflies and manage to take some good photos. We then continue to a drop off point for our river rafting on the Sarapiqui River. I think everyone was a bit concerned about the river rafting, however this is a Class 1 trip, which means no white water, no helmets or strap-ins needed – just a gentle float down a calm river.

Red and black Postman butterfly

It rains hard for the first few minutes as we load onto the inflatable rafts, but we have perfect weather for the whole 2-hour trip down the river. There are three or four sections where the water runs a bit faster, but nothing I would call rapids. I think everyone has fun. I certainly enjoyed myself, since we have very cute boat men. We see lots of wildlife up close, including a Jesus Christ lizard, Howler monkeys, a snake swimming across the river, tiny bats roosting in the trees on the shoreline, and countless birds. There is juice and fruit waiting for us at the end of the trip.

Jesus Christ lizard being held by our boatman

Our bus driver Walter then drives us to La Fortuna, where we have a wonderful lunch at the Don Rufino restaurant mid-afternoon. When we arrive at the Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort, they have drinks waiting for us, give us express check-in, and deliver our luggage from the bus to our rooms. Speaking of the rooms, they are deluxe – the best grade hotel we’ve stayed at for the whole trip.

The skies are cloudy and there are frequent rain showers at this location. I don’t see how we are going to hike in these conditions tomorrow, but according to Diego and Steven they plan to take us onto an Arenal Volcano lava flow tomorrow morning starting at 8am. We will then visit the volcano observatory and have lunch before returning to the Tabacón in early afternoon.

Tomorrow is when we can go to the Spa, or just soak in the hot pools. For this evening, Steven is suggesting we try to photograph the glowing boulders rolling down the mountain using time exposures with our cameras. That might work if we can find a perspective from our hotel location where we can clearly see the volcano’s flank.

Our dinner at the hotel this evening is later than usual at 7:30pm, in order to give us time to digest our sumptuous lunch. We have the Chinese-themed buffet at the Spa restaurant this evening. The food is very good, but it is quite noisy due to the whole spa complex beside the restaurant being very busy since it doesn’t close until 10pm.

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Return to San Jose from La Ensenda Lodge

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 9, 2008 – Saturday – La Ensenada “Star” Lodge to San Jose, Costa Rica

We spend our last morning at the Lodge comparing observing notes from the night before. Several of the group pulled all-nighters, since the sky was so wonderful. I think it was perhaps the all-time best observing evening I’ve ever experienced. It was warm, the magnitude 6 sky was steady and crystal clear, and of course the temperature was very comfortable at about 25 Celsius. The bonus was virtually no mosquitoes. I don’t know where they went, but it was a welcome relief.

During our time here, I visually observed more than a dozen southern sky objects visible from this latitude of 10 degrees north. Observing from here has driven home the point that I must travel to the southern hemisphere (South Africa, New Zealand or Australia) sometime in the near future. Observing from those locations will reveal a whole new sky to me. After my trip to New Zealand and Fiji in 2004, I’m convinced that the southern hemisphere has more than its fair share of superb celestial objects, and I must add some of them to my observing log within the next few years.

Before leaving the lodge, we have a group photo taken with our guides and lodge staff, settle our bills, leave some tips for the staff, and then climb aboard the bus bound for San Jose. It is a long drive over the mountains, however we stop for lunch at Sarchi. This is also the tourist trap: t-shirts and caps, knickknacks, and the painted ox carts and furniture Sarchi artisans are famous for. After we check-in back at the Courtyard Marriott in San Jose, it’s nice to have a hot shower and get the dust washed off. It’s also wonderful to connect to the Internet, catch up on the news, and post to my JoeTourist travelogue.

We attend a farewell dinner at the nearby Laguagua Cuban restaurant this evening. It is very noisy with a band playing and the service is slow, but it’s nice to have one last meal together before most of the group return home. Some of us are staying in Costa Rica for a few more days to continue on with the Volcanoes and Rainforest tour (starting tomorrow).

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La Ensenada Lodge – Day 1

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

Feb 5, 2008 – Tuesday – La Ensenada “Star” Lodge, Abangaritos, Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Early morning wildlife walks are conducted by our guide Diego every day we are at the lodge. The main draw is the variety of birds, however iguanas, squirrels, vegetation, flowers, and the farm animals are also observed by our group. For those of us who are dedicated night sky observers, we sometimes join the wildlife walks as the Sun rises, before having breakfast and then going to bed!

Rufous motmot in a tree

I don’t have high expectations for the Tractor Ride this afternoon, however it turns out to be a memorable experience. The owners of La Ensenada are Italians, and their son Giancarlo guides the hour and a half Tractor Ride all over the property. We see their salt ponds, horses and Brahma cattle grazing in the pastures, stop at the Aguna Observatory wildlife observing platform at a pond. Along the way we spot lots of birds and iguanas, and near the end we wind up a narrow road to the top of a hill overlooking the property and the Gulf of Nicoya. Giancarlo’s Mama serves us some superb antipasto, beer and soft drinks while we take in the view. What a nice touch! By the way, the passenger wagon we are seated in is being pulled by an Italian Landini tractor.

The group having snacks and beverages atop the scenic hill

It is clear this evening, so I take a series of wide field photos of the Taurus-Eridanus-Aires area, and then the Orion area later. Eridanus – The Celestial River – is a very large constellation near Orion, but it hugs the southern horizon from our nothern latitude, so observing it from Costa Rica means it is much higher in the sky. I then capture a series of photos of the spectacular Eta Carinae Nebula before midnight, however my tracking mount isn’t properly aligned with north, so the photos are not very useful. So this evening is rewarding for visual observing, however I have to refine my astrophotography technique.

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San Jose to La Ensenada Lodge

Feb 4, 2008 – Monday – San Jose to La Ensenada “Star” Lodge, Costa Rica

2008 Costa Rica Southern Skies Fiesta, Volcanos & Rainforest

The buffet breakfast in our hotel this morning is included in our tour, so I have a nice Spanish omelet and some very good coffee and juice. There is no rush, since we don’t leave for La Ensenada “Star” Lodge until 10:30am. Our Tico Guide is Diego and Walter is our driver, both from Swiss Tours. Our Travelquest Host is Chuck (from Phoenix), who I met at breakfast as well as Gary Seronik, who is taking care of hosting the astronomy activities. Gary is a Contributing Editor for Sky and Telescope magazine, lives in Victoria, and is a member of RASC Victoria Centre. Rick Feinberg, the Editor-in-chief for S&T is also with us on this tour along with his wife.

Everyone is on the bus on-time and ready to go, with the first stop being a large mall. We have a chance to shop in a local AM/PM and also exchange money for those who need some Colones. We then cross the Central Valley and the hills to the Pacific Ocean, passing through Palmares, San Ramon and Esparza along the way. We stop just past Esparza for lunch at the Restaurante Caballo Blanco (White Horse Restaurant), where we have our choice of beef, chicken or fish. The folks who order the beef tenderloin say it was good, but I saw them chewing a lot! I have the grilled fish, which is served with vegetables and mashed potatoes. I’m resolved to try to avoid eating beans and rice as much as possible on this trip!

Joe on the porch of his cabin at La Ensenada "Star" Lodge
Joe on the porch of his cabin at La Ensenada “Star” Lodge

After being welcomed by the staff at the lodge, settling into our cabins and enjoying some dinner, we get out under the dark skies we came here for. I take a half dozen photos of the Orion area of the sky using my dSLR, which has been modified to allow more infrared wavelengths to hit the sensor. Orion is laying down on his side due to observing from about 10º north of the equator from this location. We are used to observing from our more northern latitude of 48.5º where Orion appears upright.

Widefield night sky centred on Orion
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Acropolis & Ancient Agora

Greece 2006

April 10, 2006 – Monday – Athens, Greece

I take the Metro from Omonia Square to the Acropolis (€12 admission). Unfortunately I don’t arrive until 9:45am (it opens at 8am), so I get to join the crush of the crowds of bus tours and Greek school children who are swarming over the Parthenon, the Propylaia, and the Temple of Athena Nike. The crowds weren’t quite as bad around the Erechtheion (Old Temple) and Odeion of Herdes Atticus (Herodion) theatre.

View of the Ancient Agora from the Pantheon
View of the Ancient Agora from the Pantheon

Once I take a few photos and leave the summit of the Acropolis, the crowds thin and it is downright tranquil as I walk down the Panathenic Way to the Ancient Agora and the Temple of Hephaistos. I also visit the beautiful Holy Apostles 11th century Byzantine church, which has some wonderful fresco fragments inside. I’ll return to the Acropolis again – either at the 8am opening time, or late in the afternoon when the crowds are less. I still want to see the Dionysos theatre and the Acropolis Museum.

Xapas Taverna

I try a new restaurant tonight – Xapas, 58 Methonis, dining alone from 7:30-8:30pm. All their entrees seemed to be vegetarian, so I had Spinach Pie and Greek Salad, which were both excellent. Cost was €12.50. Last night I noticed that their customers arrived earlier, because when I walked by on my way home, they were jam-packed with a bunch of 20-somethings by 7:30pm, with some playing musical instruments.

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Athens – day 2

April 8, 2006 – Saturday – Athens, Greece – farmer’s market, Archaeological Museum & Strefi Hill

Greece 2006

Oranges from farmer’s market

After making some coffee, and having some bread and marmalade as a late breakfast, I join Harry for a shopping trip to a local, open air market: fresh fish, fruit and vegetables, as well as household sundries. Harry stocks up on everything, and I buy some oranges which are tree ripened and still have some leaves attached to them. They are super sweet and juicy!

Bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon
Bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon

After the shopping trip I walk to the National Archaeological Museum, which is only 15 minutes’ walk away. As with museums in Italy, it is endless. Hundreds of stelae, statues, and other artifacts from ancient times are beautifully displayed. Admission is €6, and they close at 3pm today.

I skip lunch, but pick up some date and sesame cake at a bakery on the way back to the apartment. I make some coffee and have a piece of cake for a snack before I lay down for an hour. I think I’m a bit lonely after being part of a group for the last two weeks!

Ayah restaurant entrance
Ayah restaurant entrance

Harry pointed out Strefi Hill on our shopping trip this morning, which is a small hill just a short distance away from the apartment. I hike up to the top and am rewarded with good views of the Acropolis and the whole city. I take a few photos, then look for restaurants on the way down, and find some which are open. I have dinner at Ayah, 43 Methunis: green salad (lettuce, tomatoes, olives, capers, cheese on top), with a penne & cheese entreé – a bargain at €8.90. It is very good food, and is much quieter than the Albanian place last night. I’ll be back.

Lots of customers smoke in restaurants here, which is hard to get used to after our non-smoking laws in Canada. Libya is also a smokers’ haven, but Italy restricts smoking in many restaurants.

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Milan to Athens

Greece 2006

April 7, 2006 – Friday – Milan, Italy to Athens, Greece & first day in Athens

My solar eclipse tour group returns to Toronto from Milan today, however I am going onward to Athens, staying for a week. We have a 5am wakeup call, and the bus arrives at 6:30am. We arrive at Milan’s Malpenza airport, where our airport guide takes us to the Alitalia check-in. He takes me to a different check-in, since I’m not going to Canada/US. After clearing security, I call Paul the Honest Greek taxi driver and confirm he will pick me up at Athens International airport upon my arrival there.

People watching in Malpenza airport:

  • Russian sports team – lots of hot looking, muscular young men
  • A woman with her Yorkshire terrier
  • A young Italian woman wearing sequined cowboy boots
  • A sports team from Tunis and another from Italy – young men & women – I thought the Turin Olympics were over?
  • Staff at an American Express booth stopping people to sign them up for the Alitalia gold card – a tough job
  • Several African men in traditional long robes and hats
My rental apartment on Exarhia Square

The Alitalia flight to Athens offers scenic views of the Ionic and Aegean Seas through the mist (see banner image above). After arriving in Athens huge international airport, I walk directly to the Arrivals area – no entry formalities thanks to still being in the European Union. My prearranged driver Paul is holding a “Mr. Carr” sign, so he is easy to find. He drives me to Athens (30 minutes by car), and drops me off at Harry’s apartment. Harry meets me at the door and shows me his rental apartment. It’s very basic, but clean, and has a small kitchen, dining room, bathroom. Despite the place having 3 bedrooms, I have the apartment to myself.

Harry recommends a local restaurant run by Albanians for dinner this evening. It takes me awhile to find it, despite it only being a block away. It isn’t fancy, but the food is good, and it’s not too expensive. I see lots of locals stop in to pickup takeout for dinner – a good sign! I have salad, a pork & spinach main course, and a Coke for €10.50.

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Benghazi to Tripoli

2006 Total Solar Eclipse – Libya

March 30, 2006 – Thursday – Benghazi to Tripoli

This morning we pack, have breakfast, and check out of the Garyunis Resort. First stop is a walking tour of Benghazi’s high end shopping area and its Souk. Benghazi is relatively new, since it was badly bombed during WW II. Some of our group find a great fabric shop with some amazing patterns and colours on imported fabrics. Several women in our group buy lots of fabric to take back home. We have lunch at a Turkish restaurant, which serves us a very nice meal: salad, grilled ground meat (skinless sausages) and chicken chunks, and warm flatbread.

We were then driven to the airport and depart for Tripoli on a Buraq Air Boeing 737-200. We are staying at a different hotel this time: Bab Al-Bahr Hotel. I think it is a grade better than Al-Safina Hotel, where we were staying before. The only problem is that it isn’t close to the Souk, so several people in my group hire taxis. Personally, I’m not interested in more shopping, and decide to catch up on my blog at the Internet Café located in the lobby. Several clients in the Internet Café see me posting my eclipse photo, and want the URL to send in their email messages to their friends and family.