Monthly Archives: August 2025

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Whitehorse to Victoria

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August 10, 2025 – Muktuk Sled Dogs, Transportation Museum, Whitehorse, Yukon to Victoria, BC

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

This morning, we stop at the firehall to see the horse sculpture up close, which is made from scrap metal parts. We also find a fireman sculpture, also made from scrap.

Horse sculpture made from scrap metal parts

Then we head out of town town to the Ibex Valley to visit Muktuk Adventures, a local sled-dog kennel and northern adventure business. We have time to meet the dogs, and learn about the Yukon lifestyle from owner Manuela, a German woman who owns and operates this resort. She explains that of the 117 dogs in the yard, over half are “retired” from pulling sleds. If they are worked in the summer, they get overheated, so they are off duty until the colder weather returns. We enjoy a locally inspired lunch of bison burgers, side dishes and dessert. I go for a walk along the nearby Takhini River, which offers a beautiful respite from all the bus travel on this trip.

A champion sled dog, now retired

We drive back to Whitehorse airport to experience the Yukon Transportation Museum. They have vintage aircraft, rail, trucks and other conveyances such as sleds and kayaks, with historical information for everything on display. The replica Queen of the Yukon on display was commissioned by the Yukon Government for the Yukon pavilion at Expo ’86 in Vancouver. This Ryan B-1 Brougham was a stock version of her sister the Spirit of St. Louis, Charles Lindbergh’s heavily-modified Ryan that performed the first solo nonstop transatlantic flight.

A recreation of Whitehorse in the early years

We take the short ride to the airport, say goodbye to our bus driver, and check in for our afternoon Air North flight home to Victoria aboard a Boeing 737-8 aircraft. We are served lunch while aboard: a choice of beverage, sandwich, and their famous warm chocolate chip cookies. Although most of the flight is above a solid cloud deck, I manage to take some photos of Carcross and Bennett Lake shortly after we depart Whitehorse, and it clears for the end of the flight down Georgia Strait, so I get some decent aerial photos of Vancouver Island starting from Parksville south to Victoria, including the wild fire at Cameron Lake.

Flight map: Air North -Victoria approach
Air North -Victoria approach
Flight map: Air North -Whitehorse-Victoria - Vancouver Island
Air North -Whitehorse-Victoria – Vancouver Island
Flight map: Air North -Whitehorse-Victoria
Air North -Whitehorse-Victoria

We land at 6:49pm at Victoria airport, where an LA Limousine transfer is waiting to take us home. In my case, we are in an Audi eTron to drive two others and myself home.

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Whitehorse

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August 9, 2025 – Whitehorse, Yukon

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

Today, there is a bus tour to Destruction Bay, so the group can experience Kluane National Park, however I decide to stay in Whitehorse. I meet a newly-discovered cousin for lunch so we can connect, since he lives in Whitehorse. We talk about our shared family roots – so valuable to talk in person! He gives me a lovely gift of an Inuit soapstone and bone carving of a walrus.

Walrus soapstone and bone Inuit carving

I join my Mile Zero Tour group for our farewell dinner at Antoinette’s Cuisine, a Jamaican/Caribbean restaurant offering an excellent international fusion menu. Their limited staff were a bit overwhelmed with our group, despite our tour director pre-ordering our selections, but they did their best and we enjoyed ourselves since we were in no hurry. There were lots of exotic choices with our buffet, but I went back twice for a Yukon Callaloo – vegetarian greens with Caribbean spices I enjoyed over rice.

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Carcross & Wildlife Preserve

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August 8, 2025 – Historic Carcross and Yukon Wildlife Preserve, Yukon

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

We have breakfast in Ricky’s at the hotel, take our bags to the lobby for loading on the bus and depart Quality Inn heading south on the Alaska Highway. We stop at beautiful Emerald Lake and arrive in historic Carcross on Bennett Lake mid-morning. We have over an hour on our own to explore this interesting historic town, where the gold rush miners arrived after having built their own boats to cross Bennett Lake on their way to Dawson City (hundreds of miles further overland).

We stop at the Carcross Desert, which is the smallest desert in the world, and what remains of a glacial lake. A few of our group hike to the top of the dunes before we hit the road again, heading north to our lunch stop at Bean North’s cafe.

Carcross
Carcross
15 photos

The Yukon Wildlife Preserve in the Macpherson-Grizzly Valley not far from Whitehorse is our final stop of the day. This experience gives our group a unique opportunity to see Yukon’s wildlife, which is otherwise hard to spot in the wild. It is owned by the Yukon government and is operated by a non-profit. It is very well run by dedicated staff who are very mindful of the wild animals’ needs. It is 283 hectares (700 acres) in size, so the animals have lots of space to roam, graze, hide, and interact with each other without humans being in the way. I’m not a fan of zoos or game farms, however this preserve is a wonderful experience – JoeTourist recommended!

Locations of the wildlife in the Yukon Wildlife Preserve

Our group split into two: those who wanted to walk the access roads on foot, and those of us who preferred a narrated Group Tour on our bus, but with stops along the way. We had almost two hours here, which allowed us to not be rushed.

List of wildlife I observed and photographed:

  • Mule deer
  • Elk herd
  • Moose in the distance
  • Thin-horned sheep
  • Musk ox
  • Arctic ground squirrel
  • Elk males
  • Thin-horned sheep
  • Woodland Caribou
  • Billy goats on the ridge
  • Moose
  • Bison
Yukon Wildlife Preserve
Yukon Wildlife Preserve
9 photos
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Carmacks to Whitehorse

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August 7, 2025 – Carmacks to Whitehorse, Yukon

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

The original plan for today was to leave Carmacks and drive to Destruction Bay and Kluane National Park, staying overnight before driving to Whitehorse the next day. As it turns out, that didn’t happen!

Our tour group is awakened by a loud noise just before 7AM as we are about to put our bags out in the hallway of the Carmacks Hotel for loading onto the bus. Our bus driver drove the rear of the bus into the hotel building, managed to park it again, and stumbled into the lobby where he collapsed. He is being attended to by several people, including a doctor in our group, and then an ambulance takes him to the Carmacks Health Centre, which is right across the street.

After he is assessed at the Health Centre, the ambulance takes him to Whitehorse hospital. The bus is still running, since nobody knows how to turn it off, however it isn’t otherwise doing any harm where it is. We hear later that our driver and his wife are flying to Edmonton so he can get treatment. Our group is concerned about our driver, who we all like very much.

Our Tour Director Alistair and Mile Zero Tours in Victoria are working on a plan to get us moving again. The Standard Bus company operations guy arrives mid-morning, turns off the bus and has a look at the damage. While we wait for new arrangements to be made, the Hotel Carmacks assures us we can stay in our rooms. After breakfast, I go for a short walk along the river and then return to my room. Since I have lots of time, I catch up with annotating my photos and work on my journal from the last couple of days.

Our tour director tells us we will leave for Whitehorse at 1:30PM with a new bus and driver, who will be with us for the rest of the tour. We will stay at the Quality Inn for one night in Whitehorse, and then move to the Sternwheeler Hotel for two more nights. Day trips will run out of Whitehorse starting tomorrow, since today is a write-off.

We have lunch in the Carmacks Hotel restaurant before we leave, paid for by the bus company. Along the highway, we stop at Fox Lake before arriving at the Quality Inn in Whitehorse at 4PM. This hotel is newer than the Sternwheeler, so the group are happy with the new accommodations. Dinner for the group is paid for by Mile Zero Tours.

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Dawson City to Mayo & Carmacks

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August 6, 2025 – Dawson City to Mayo and onward to Carmacks, Yukon

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

After breakfast, we leave the Triple J Hotel in Dawson City for Mayo. After turning off the Klondike Highway to head to Mayo, we encounter some major highway construction along the Stewart River. After arriving at the Binet House Museum in Mayo, we have time to take in some of the history of this silver mining town before the caterer arrives with our lunch. Two local women share some history of their town and this area: 400 people live here, they have a K-12 school, outdoor pool, seniors residence, store, and municipal services. They are still dealing with the mine spill into the river, which happened last year (2024 Candian Press article). I take a walk down to the Stewart River before we board the bus to continue our journey.

Mayo
Mayo
9 photos

After departing Mayo and rejoining the Klondike Highway, we stop at Yukon Crossing, where cattle were driven across the Yukon River.

Where cattle were driven across the Yukon River

Our next rest stop is at Pelly’s Crossing, where there is a gas station, a general store, and a few houses. Just under two hours later, we arrive in Carmacks, where we check into the local Hotel Carmacks. The hotel looks pretty dodgy, but my room is clean. The Trans-Canada Trail is just a block away, offering a nice walk along the shore of the river on a boardwalk. I fly my drone up the Yukon River, over the bridge and circle back taking 4k video. I have a very nice butter chicken dinner in the hotel restaurant.

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South Dempster Highway

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August 5, 2025 – Tombstone – Dempster Highway from Dawson City, Yukon

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

Tombstone & Oglivie Mountains – South Dempster Hwy

As we drive to the start of the Dempster Highway, our local guide shares that the Klondike Highway to Dawson was built in 1953. Previously, traffic between Whitehorse and Dawson City used river boats during warm weather and a wagon road was used in winter. As we cross the Klondike River bridge and start our journey north on the Dempster Highway, she tells us the story of The Lost Patrol – the ill-fated mission to Fort McPherson by an experienced North West Mounted Police dog sled team that lost their way in the winter of 1911. All froze to death on this very route we are on.

This southern section of the gravel, all-season Dempster Highway follows the North Klondike River, however the highway continues all the way to Inuvik and onward to Tuktoyaktuk in the North West Territories. Legends are shared about pioneers Joe and Annie Henry, who lived at Wolf Creek, which is in the area we drive through today. The Oglivie Mountains are spectacular in the summer light along this route. By noon we arrive at the Tombstone Territorial Interpretive Centre and Campground, where we have a rest break and a picnic lunch. I pop my drone up to capture some panoramas and video of this beautiful area.

After lunch, we continue north through the beautiful Blackstone Valley, arriving at Two Moose Lake at 1:30pm, the most northerly point in our drive today. On our return drive south, we stop at the Tombstone Mountain lookout, where we catch glimpses of that iconic mountain to the south through the heavy clouds. We continue south, arriving back in Dawson City in the late afternoon. Despite the overcast skies and a few rain showers, it was great to experience “The Dempster” as this route is referred to by locals. Our bus is covered in mud from this gravel highway, so our driver has to make a trip to the local vehicle wash!

Dempster Highway
Dempster Highway
17 photos

Dawson City

I have drinks and dinner with a couple from our tour group this evening. We start at Bombay Peggy’s for Naughty martinis: Midnight Cowboy (cacao & espresso), Bloomer Remover (classic gin martini) for me, and a Big Speak (cranberry). Although expensive, all three cocktails meet our exacting standards in this funky bar with a history! We decide on the Drunken Goat Taverna – Greek Couzina for dinner. We sat with others from our group as we enjoyed the tasty food on the street-side patio.

Joe with 3 martinis
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Inuvik to Dawson City

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August 4, 2025 – Flying from Inuvik, Northwest Territories to Dawson City, Yukon

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

Inuvik town tour and airport transfer – Olav & Judi

  • Very quiet in town today since it’s a civic holiday
  • Above ground sewer and water – Utilidor
  • Cosmic ray detection – Aurora College Research Institute
  • Oil and LNG storage tanks – trucked in from Alberta and BC
  • Some solar generated power is being used to feed the grid
  • Wood pellets are being used for heating buildings – trucked in from Alberta
  • Keeping the permafrost frozen during summer to stabilize buildings – Flat Loop Thermosyphon Foundations in Warm Permafrost
  • Western Arctic Regional Visitor Centre – static displays, info about what to do in the region, and free, personalized Certificate of the Arctic Circle Chapter Order of Adventurers issued!
  • Hospital is 14-years old with 6 doctors but there are no dentists in Inuvik
  • Olav and Judi’s Arctic Chalet – Judi brings out 2-week old sled dog pups for cuddles
  • Douglas DC-3C parked at Inuvik airport (Kenn Borek Air; Reg: C-GAWI)
Fur-trimmed ribbon coat

Flight 358 from Inuvik to Dawson City

  • Air North ATR 42-320 Reg: C-GVGX
  • Takeoff 2:08pm Mountain Time
  • We fly above thick clouds most of the flight, so I only capture one aerial photo
  • Landed 2:28pm Pacific Time
  • Flight time 1:20
Oglivie Mountains

Dawson City

  • Midnight Dome mountain – a view of Dawson City, the Yukon and Klondike Rivers
  • Group dinner at Triple J Hotel restaurant – I have pulled pork with salad, cheesecake for dessert, and a Belgian Wheat beer. Good service and food.
View of Yukon & Klondike Rivers and Dawson City from Midnight Dome mountain
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Tuktoyaktuk & Mackenzie River Delta

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August 3, 2025 – Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

Today, our group visit Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean, and have a scenic flight over the Mackenzie River delta.

We are split into two groups, with my group leaving in the morning for Tuktoyaktuk on a touring van driven by our guide Olaf. This is the northern section of the Dempster Highway, some 150 kms of gravel from Inuvik. While in Tuk, we have an opportunity to take a dip in the Arctic Ocean and have a cultural visit before flying back to Inuvik over the beautiful Mackenzie River delta.

The other half of our group flies to Tuktoyaktuk later in the afternoon, visits Tuk, and returns by road in the evening.

Drive to Tuktoyaktuk

This most-northerly section of the Dempster Highway is 150 kms long and originally cost $300 million to build on the tundra and muskeg. Maintenance and rebuilding is done each summer, since the roadbed is built on such a soft foundation. At its highest point the highway is 550 metres above sea level. Locals stash snowmobiles and other camp equipment just off the highway and use the snowmobiles in the summer to cross the tundra to seasonal camps. We pass many lakes and bogs along the way, including Jimmy Lake, where a huge reindeer herd lives during the winter. Pingos are visible here and there – hills formed from the melting and freezing cycle, with their cores being permafrost.

Seasonal camp equipment left beside the highway with Pingos in the distance

Tuktoyaktuk

After making use of the washrooms at the Tuk airport, we drive over to Roger and Winnie’s home for an Inuit cultural experience. Winnie has prepared lunch for us: Cranberry jam on Bannock and Doughnuts to start; Reindeer soup; Whitefish and Arctic Char; and Cloudberry compote on confetti cake for dessert.

Roger shares with us his life in the north. Food comes from hunting, fishing and whaling (Beluga). Living in freezing temperatures most of the year means wearing parkas, mittens and boots. Winnie and Roger first met at a residential school. Roger was a leader for his people’s self-government and land settlement initiatives. Food is stored in permafrost root cellar lockers – a community resource.

Winnie serving fish for lunch - Whitefish and Arctic Char

Our next activity is to take a dip in the Arctic Ocean – a bucket list item for many in our group. This will likely be the furthest north (69º 27′ North Latitude) any of us will be while on land, so this is the time for selfies beside the shore of the Arctic Ocean, and dipping toes into the water, with a few in swimsuits going full immersion! On our way back to the airport, we stop for photos of two nearby and large Pingos in the Mackenzie River delta.

Joe in Tuk on the Arctic Ocean

Sightseeing Flight over the Mackenzie River to Inuvik

  • Our sightseeing charter flight departs from Tuk airport at 3:30pm on a De Havilland Canada DHC-6-300 Twin Otter
  • Altitude – 150′ to 1,000′
  • Fly along the Arctic Ocean coastline, circle some Pingos, and fly low over the intricate channels, pools and islands of the Mackenzie River delta
  • Arrive in Inuvik at 4:30pm

For me personally, this sightseeing flight is the highlight of the tour, and the weather was perfect!

After our return to Inuvik, some of us have dinner at Alestine’s – a casual restaurant built in the owner’s front yard, with the kitchen inside a converted school bus. I enjoy some excellent fish tacos & Yukon Gold beer on the patio. Cost for me was $45 (tax and tip included, cash only). Very good service and food – highly recommended!

Northwest Territories Aerials
Northwest Territories Aerials
18 photos
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Dawson City to Inuvik

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August 2, 2025 – fly from Dawson City, Yukon to Inuvik, Northwest Territories

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

Yesterday, our tour director told us we are restricted to 20 lbs for baggage on this flight to Inuvik. This isn’t much to work with, but I have no problem taking less with me since we will only spend two nights in Inuvik. I remember when I was restricted to 14 lbs in a single small bag when I was on safari in Botswana. Our bus driver kindly offers to store our big bags in his room, since he will be staying in Dawson City while we are up north.

Our Air North Flight 327 on an ATR 42-320 2-engine turboprop departs from Dawson Airport at 11:30am Pacific Time. It is a cloudy but bright day, and the clouds clear as we fly north over Yukon’s big mountains and rivers into the flat landscape of the Mackenzie River valley in the Northwest Territories, crossing the Arctic Circle. Flight time is 1 hour 15 minutes, and we land at Inuvik at 1:51PM Mountain Time.

Flying over the Blackstone River area

Once we are checked into the Mackenzie Hotel, there is time to explore the town. I don’t go far, but walk around the iconic igloo-shaped Our Lady of Victory Roman Catholic Church. The local grocery store is open, but most of the town is closed for the civic holiday weekend. We have a group dinner at Mamaqtuk, the hotel’s bar & restaurant. My beer cost $10.87, the food was mediocre, and the service was exceedingly slow.

Our Lady of Victory Roman Catholic Church

I pop up my DJI Mini 3 Pro drone at 11PM in front of the hotel to take an HDR panorama from 50m above ground. Of course there is still lots of light at this late hour since we are so far north and it’s summertime.

Aerial panorama of Inuvik and the Mackenzie River 2 hours before sunset
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Dawson City & Goldfields

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August 1, 2025 – Dawson City and the goldfields, Yukon

2025 Yukon & Northwest Territories

Dawson city goldfields tour – Michelle, local guide

  • Keno sternwheeler and group photo (see banner photo above)
  • “Mining the miners” – the merchants were the ones who made money during the Gold Rush
  • Bonanza Creek Discovery Claim – first claim by George Carmack, Skookum Jim Mason, Dawson Charlie, Kate (a Tagish woman married to George)
  • Dredge #4 – we didn’t get to go inside
  • Active gold mining continues in the Bonanza Creek area
The bucket line at the front and the main dredge vessel

I walk around the historic city this afternoon

  • Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall
  • Midnight Sun Hotel
  • Westminster Hotel – Est. 1989
  • Window displays: Yoho water heater, metal items produced from Billy Bigg’s Blacksmith Shop
  • Third Avenue Complex – leaning derelict buildings
  • Residential houses with front porches
  • 2-story log cabin style house with a flowers and a white picket fence
  • The Rock Jewelry & Art Merchants with flattened oil barrels used for siding on this historic commercial building
Midnight Sun Hotel

There is thunder, lightning and strong wind while we walk a few blocks to our group dinner at the Aurora Inn restaurant. The food is generally good, but the service is not great despite everyone pre-ordering, and the drink prices are high.